Hello and thank you for your time. I have an RCA Victor 29K console a.m., m.w., s.w. radio that has some issues that I would like to learn about. On the first Inter stage Frequency can, on the connection between the 6SA7 tube and the 6SQ7 tube is what looks like a ceramic capacitor, or resistor. Its not on the schematic. the color band is a follows: yellow, red, yellow, (wide band), violet, and silver. Can anyone tell me which this is, and why its their Id appreciate it.
My other issue is that the radio functions well on all bands only if I connect an long range antennae to the short wave variable capacitor, and a 20 ft line to the m.w. a.m. variable capacitor. What am I missing here?

:Hello and thank you for your time. I have an RCA Victor 29K console a.m., m.w., s.w. radio that has some issues that I would like to learn about. On the first Inter stage Frequency can, on the connection between the 6SA7 tube and the 6SQ7 tube is what looks like a ceramic capacitor, or resistor. Its not on the schematic. the color band is a follows: yellow, red, yellow, (wide band), violet, and silver. Can anyone tell me which this is, and why its their Id appreciate it.
:My other issue is that the radio functions well on all bands only if I connect an long range antennae to the short wave variable capacitor, and a 20 ft line to the m.w. a.m. variable capacitor. What am I missing here?
: The Ist IF doenst tie to 6SQ7. I was refering to the 6SK7 tube that the resistor/capacitor ties to
:

:: The Ist IF doenst tie to 6SQ7. I was refering to the 6SK7 tube that the resistor/capacitor ties to
::
:
:
Disregard my previous post about the "6K7" tube- should have been "6SK7". Still need exact connectivity of the unknown part.

:Hello and thank you for your time. I have an RCA Victor 29K console a.m., m.w., s.w. radio that has some issues that I would like to learn about. On the first Inter stage Frequency can, on the connection between the 6SA7 tube and the 6SQ7 tube is what looks like a ceramic capacitor, or resistor. Its not on the schematic. the color band is a follows: yellow, red, yellow, (wide band), violet, and silver. Can anyone tell me which this is, and why its their Id appreciate it.
:My other issue is that the radio functions well on all bands only if I connect an long range antennae to the short wave variable capacitor, and a 20 ft line to the m.w. a.m. variable capacitor. What am I missing here?
:
:
You need to provide a little more info. The first IF can is between a 6SA7 and 6K7 tube, not the 6SQ7. Where EXACTLY does the strange part connect: plate, grid, cathode, etc? Is it installed in series or does it jumper across two points (electrical nodes)? If the latter, which nodes?

Next, which capacitors are you talking about? (Use the schematic reference numbers, for example C6 and C15). The only variable caps that are dedicated to a specific band like BC or SW are compression-style trimmer caps used for dial tracking adjustments- do you mean those, or the 2-section main tuning cap?

Reading between the lines, I suspect that you are connecting to the antenna/osc plates of the main tuning cap (C6/C15) to get reception. You probably have a bad RF amp tube, an open antenna coil, or a dirty bandswitch contact... can probably be more helpful if you can better identify the parts.

::Hello and thank you for your time. I have an RCA Victor 29K console a.m., m.w., s.w. radio that has some issues that I would like to learn about. On the first Inter stage Frequency can, on the connection between the 6SA7 tube and the 6SQ7 tube is what looks like a ceramic capacitor, or resistor. Its not on the schematic. the color band is a follows: yellow, red, yellow, (wide band), violet, and silver. Can anyone tell me which this is, and why its their Id appreciate it.
::My other issue is that the radio functions well on all bands only if I connect an long range antennae to the short wave variable capacitor, and a 20 ft line to the m.w. a.m. variable capacitor. What am I missing here?
::
::
:You need to provide a little more info. The first IF can is between a 6SA7 and 6K7 tube, not the 6SQ7. Where EXACTLY does the strange part connect: plate, grid, cathode, etc? Is it installed in series or does it jumper across two points (electrical nodes)? If the latter, which nodes?
:
:Next, which capacitors are you talking about? (Use the schematic reference numbers, for example C6 and C15). The only variable caps that are dedicated to a specific band like BC or SW are compression-style trimmer caps used for dial tracking adjustments- do you mean those, or the 2-section main tuning cap?
:
:Reading between the lines, I suspect that you are connecting to the antenna/osc plates of the main tuning cap (C6/C15) to get reception. You probably have a bad RF amp tube, an open antenna coil, or a dirty bandswitch contact... can probably be more helpful if you can better identify the parts.
:
CV,
To get reception from an outside antennae I connected directly to the main tuning capacitors. The air variable with the metal plates, C6 and C15. There are no tuning caps attached to it.
The strange part on the chassis connects starts at the supply on 6SG7 and ties to the ground on 6SQ7, then ties to center point on the right side of IF 1, then to IF A, then to supply on 6SK7. According to the schematic their is no connection to ground on 6SQ7
The line should go from 6SG7, (supply) directly to the center point in IF 1, to IF A, to 6SK7 (supply). I fixed the issue and turned on the radio, but got the same results.

Clean the contacts and try a new RF tube. Not a bad idea.
The tube is the original from the set, so Im guessing its seen its day. The problem is, I purchased a tube online that was used, but the condition was good. I should have opted for a new old stock, not a used.
I'm waiting for a 630 pf antennae capacitor that connects directly to the coil for the a.m. band hoping the capacitor is bad.
The coil is good. Attempting to adjust it even a little results in fading reception, and oscillation noises. I am not touching that. Supposedly the system has been tuned on an oscilloscope to measured specifications of 455KC. I didn't think that was possible given the operation depends on over riding a bad tube to gain reception.

Your problem is almost certainly in the "front end" of the set. This is made up of all parts from and including the loop antenna up to and including the 6SG7 tube. The passive parts include L2-L4, S1 and S2, and the various caps that are attached there.

Most typically when there is a fault in the front end it is caused by an open coil. This is due to a couple of different reasons, but the most common one was having a lightning pulse run into the set via an outside antenna. Coils can also fail due to corrosion. However, caps can fail also but this is much less likely since the caps typically used in this section are not the paper-foil tubular type.

And, as I already mentioned, a dirty bandswitch can act exactly like an open coil.

Is the loop antenna installed? This set has the front end tuned to the loop antenna and will not function correctly without it.

The 455kHz business pertains to the pass frequency of the IF filter stages, not the front end. Nothing you can do to the front end will disturb the IF filter settings. The IF stages and local oscillator are at least nominally working since you can receive stations by jerryrigging the front end tuning circuit. That's not to say that the set won't need a complete alignment (IF cans AND the front end) when you get finished with it.

:Your problem is almost certainly in the "front end" of the set. This is made up of all parts from and including the loop antenna up to and including the 6SG7 tube. The passive parts include L2-L4, S1 and S2, and the various caps that are attached there.
:
:Most typically when there is a fault in the front end it is caused by an open coil. This is due to a couple of different reasons, but the most common one was having a lightning pulse run into the set via an outside antenna. Coils can also fail due to corrosion. However, caps can fail also but this is much less likely since the caps typically used in this section are not the paper-foil tubular type.
:
:And, as I already mentioned, a dirty bandswitch can act exactly like an open coil.
:
:Is the loop antenna installed? This set has the front end tuned to the loop antenna and will not function correctly without it.
:
:The 455kHz business pertains to the pass frequency of the IF filter stages, not the front end. Nothing you can do to the front end will disturb the IF filter settings. The IF stages and local oscillator are at least nominally working since you can receive stations by jerryrigging the front end tuning circuit. That's not to say that the set won't need a complete alignment (IF cans AND the front end) when you get finished with it.
:

:"a dirty bandswitch can act exactly like an open coil". Reluctantly Im inclined to accept this as the problem. Without the loop antennae installed I get hum, despite the outside antennae connected directly to the variable capacitors. Without the coil and the loop antenna, the direct connection would be useless. All of the black mica capacitors have been replaced. All voltages are within 10% leaning on the weak side, but I'm guessing that will correct itself once the system gets a good alignment. The problem now stands at correcting the switches. S1 and S2. The connections are loose and the connection blades are not making solid contact. Any suggestions on tightening them up without shattering the structure?

Also, did you get a chance to find out about the mystery rainbow capacitor/resistor in IF 1.

Thanks for the advise, it removes a lot of grief.

I've never had a lot of luck repairing badly damaged wafer switches. Since any given switch is generally unique to its specific radio model, it may be necessary to wait until an identical "junk" set with a good switch comes along until a repair can be made (although bad wafer band switches are a frequent reason why sets are junked in the first place).

Most wafer switches are assembled with small brass rivets. If these rivets loosen up and allow the contacts to also loosen and rotate, it may be possible to drill out the rivet with a Dremel tool and replace it with a tiny brass (00-90) nut-bolt-washer set. An alternate approach might be to immobilize the contact with epoxy glue. This may help with a switch that has one or two flaky contacts- more than that, probably a waste of time to try to fix in this way.

:I've never had a lot of luck repairing badly damaged wafer switches. Since any given switch is generally unique to its specific radio model, it may be necessary to wait until an identical "junk" set with a good switch comes along until a repair can be made (although bad wafer band switches are a frequent reason why sets are junked in the first place).
:
:Most wafer switches are assembled with small brass rivets. If these rivets loosen up and allow the contacts to also loosen and rotate, it may be possible to drill out the rivet with a Dremel tool and replace it with a tiny brass (00-90) nut-bolt-washer set. An alternate approach might be to immobilize the contact with epoxy glue. This may help with a switch that has one or two flaky contacts- more than that, probably a waste of time to try to fix in this way.
:
That shouldn't be too much trouble since the tone switch was in the same condition. The wafer was warped to the point where all the contacts would be bent out of shape with two turns. Since the wafer was removed from the set is was a lot easier to replace it with a new one, with fresh contacts. I purchased the rivets and wafer from two online web sites; a jewelry store and antique radio supply. The original rotating center piece was in excellent condition. Thankfully. Id rather have a switch I don't have to handle with caution, so rebuilding seems a better option than epoxy resin.