I built this radio in 2009 and it's been working fine until recently. It was re-capped, all new resistors and wiring.

It only has static coming out of it now. I've been all over it and can't find a problem. No bad caps, resistors etc. Nothing fried. All the voltages look good. I even threw a new set of NOS tubes in it that I had even though the ones in it tested good.

I remember having a problem with this set when I first built it. I had to clean the Loctal tube pins and sockets VERY thoroughly before it would work right. I've done all that again and still just static.

Hope I remembered how to link the schematic here. It comes from the "Resources" page here at NA. Haven't been working on a lot of radios now that I'm fully into the '65 Ranchero restoration.

If you have any ideas I'd sure like to hear them.

Thanks,
Johnny

Are all bands dead?

Check the primary of the antenna coil.
This is one radio that can have the green dot problem.

:Check the primary of the antenna coil.
:This is one radio that can have the green dot problem.
:
:All bands are dead CV. I'll check that antenna coil but i've checked all the coils and IF coils and they have good resistance readings. I have the 46-480 paperwork from Chuck Schwark and it's pretty thorough.

What's the "Green Dot" problem Warren?

Johnny

:Check the primary of the antenna coil.
:This is one radio that can have the green dot problem.
:
:The antenna coil primary is good Warren.

Johnny

:
Time to bust out the signal injector and start working backwards from the 6V6 audio output tube. Shouldn't be too tough to figure out if you go through it stage by stage.

::
:Time to bust out the signal injector and start working backwards from the 6V6 audio output tube. Shouldn't be too tough to figure out if you go through it stage by stage.
:
:After testing with the sig. gen. I found that R17 (on the Rides schematic) was fried. 1K 1/2 watt resistor in series with the "RED" wires between 1st and 2nd IF's on the B+ line off of C59 20ufd Ecap.

So what caused it? Through the process of elimination I found that disconnecting B+ from the RF section of the radio stops the 1K resistor from heating up. This sucks!

If you've ever taken apart the RF section of a Philco 46-480 you know what I mean. It's a bear. I checked every component I could get to and I don't see anything wrong. BUT! There's a ton of stuff buried in the bandswitch that one just can't get to without taking the bandswitch out. This is a terrible job on this radio but I know where the problem is and now I just have to tear it apart and find it.

Johnny

In looking at the schematic, it appears to me that the only thing that could fry the resistor is a dead short on its downstream side: think that I'd check C37 for being shorted, and if that doesn't pan out, I'd look at the red wire running into the 2nd IF can to make certain that its insulation hadn't flaked off, putting its conductor in contact with the chassis hole that it runs through on its way to the IF transformer.

Awfully prescient of those Philco engineers to put that 1K resistor there, I'd say.

:In looking at the schematic, it appears to me that the only thing that could fry the resistor is a dead short on its downstream side: think that I'd check C37 for being shorted, and if that doesn't pan out, I'd look at the red wire running into the 2nd IF can to make certain that its insulation hadn't flaked off, putting its conductor in contact with the chassis hole that it runs through on its way to the IF transformer.
:
:Awfully prescient of those Philco engineers to put that 1K resistor there, I'd say.
:
:
:The excessive current draw is coming from the other side of R17. Not the C37 side. C37 is fine. All of the wiring in the IF cans is new. If you follow the B+ to the left of the page (K Line) and pick up (K) on page 15-19 you'll see it goes into the RF section of this radio. Almost every component on Riders page 15-19 is buried under or within the bandswitch. The 7F8 tube sits on top of the RF chassis but it's socket cannot be seen from under the radio. All of the 7F8 socket pins are under the bandswitch.

I'll try to post a picture of this RF section later. I'm confident my problem is in this section. I disconnect that B+ line from the RF section and my excessive current draw on R17 goes away.

Johnny

::"The excessive current draw is coming from the other side of R17. Not the C37 side. C37 is fine. All of the wiring in the IF cans is new...(snip)"

Now, that statement makes no sense if in fact R17 is the resistor that got fried, as you earlier reported. R17 will only cook if excessive current passes through it. That can only happen if something on the its C37 side is a low impedance to ground. A short anywhere else on the other (B+) side of R17 can not possibly damage R17.

Your statement about the wiring in the IF cans being new is a clue. An errant wire strand inside the can on the primary side of the transformer can wreak all sorts of havoc.

:In looking at the schematic, it appears to me that the only thing that could fry the resistor is a dead short on its downstream side: think that I'd check C37 for being shorted, and if that doesn't pan out, I'd look at the red wire running into the 2nd IF can to make certain that its insulation hadn't flaked off, putting its conductor in contact with the chassis hole that it runs through on its way to the IF transformer.
:
:Awfully prescient of those Philco engineers to put that 1K resistor there, I'd say.
:
:
:Here's a pic of that RF section. I hope!