My Philco 37-116 is just dead. I only have -2.8 volts on the grid of the 6A8 (OSC) tube. I have 190v plate voltage and from the cathode to ground is about 300 ohms. I think the osc is not running but not sure where to look for the reason. Tried another 6A8 and no difference.

This is a very complicated 15-tube, multi-band set. What's called for is systematic troubleshooting, checking all the voltages against the schematic. I would work from the back (audio) end, forward toward the RF and antenna sections. Do not start wholesale replacing of caps, etc., until you finish troubleshooting and get the set working after a fashion. Then, after replacing each cap, verify that the set is still working and you haven't introduced a wiring error. Ideally you should have reasonable experience restoring old radios before tackling this beast.

You suspect the oscillator isn't running? What do you base that on? That sounds like a "hunch" that will likely lead to other hunches, rabbit chases, and distract you from systematic troubleshooting. But, if you want to check the oscillator, tune another radio at the Philco's IF frequency plus the tuned freq of Philco. Rock the tuning of the Philco back and forth, and listen for the whistle on the second radio. But even if you hear nothing, there are other problems, besides the oscillator that may be the cause of that. So, my advice is to abandon all hunches, and begin systematic troubleshooting. If you don't think you have the experience for that, then get hands-on help - or set the Philco aside for a few years until you do.

:This is a very complicated 15-tube, multi-band set. What's called for is systematic troubleshooting, checking all the voltages against the schematic. I would work from the back (audio) end, forward toward the RF and antenna sections. Do not start wholesale replacing of caps, etc., until you finish troubleshooting and get the set working after a fashion. Then, after replacing each cap, verify that the set is still working and you haven't introduced a wiring error. Ideally you should have reasonable experience restoring old radios before tackling this beast.
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:You suspect the oscillator isn't running? What do you base that on? That sounds like a "hunch" that will likely lead to other hunches, rabbit chases, and distract you from systematic troubleshooting. But, if you want to check the oscillator, tune another radio at the Philco's IF frequency plus the tuned freq of Philco. Rock the tuning of the Philco back and forth, and listen for the whistle on the second radio. But even if you hear nothing, there are other problems, besides the oscillator that may be the cause of that. So, my advice is to abandon all hunches, and begin systematic troubleshooting. If you don't think you have the experience for that, then get hands-on help - or set the Philco aside for a few years until you do.
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I thought they (NA) always said you had to have 8 or 10 volts negative on the grid of the osc or it wasn't running.

Agree, it's easier to eliminate the fault possiblities through methodical testing than rely on a lucky guess. Although it's usually a lot less fun.

BTW, as long as the oscillator tube's grid is negative with respect to its cathode, it is probably OK. Zero, or positive, DC voltage from grid to cathode would be an indication that the tube cannot possibly work, and that whatever is feeding the grid has a fault.

:Agree, it's easier to eliminate the fault possiblities through methodical testing than rely on a lucky guess. Although it's usually a lot less fun.
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:BTW, as long as the oscillator tube's grid is negative with respect to its cathode, it is probably OK. Zero, or positive, DC voltage from grid to cathode would be an indication that the tube cannot possibly work, and that whatever is feeding the grid has a fault.

Well I threw an O-scope on the oscillator and found out it was running just fine. I then took my old signal generator that I haven't used in years and took it apart and cleaned the switches and looked at its output with the scope to see if it still worked and it worked great so injected a signal at the first IF and nothing got thru to the speaker and same for the second IF stage so started looking at the audio circuits next. Past the volume control I could get a good sound out but prior to the volume tube and at the arm of the volume control I could get no sound from the speaker. Ohmmeter showed zero ohms to ground at the arm. Turns out this version had a switch that shorted out the arm of the volume control to ground. I think it was used to short out the signal when going from one station to another of the presets. Anyway it was engaged all the time so disconnected it and the radio runs great. Not sure how to fix the tuning mechanism on this set. It is done thru a gearing mechanism and seems to slip at times. I think there is a spring inside that is weak. A project for another day.
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That's the interstation muting switch. This is usually a very simple switch but because it is common to all the station preset buttons, if one button hangs up (slightly sticks) the radio will be in permanent mute mode. A shot of silicone lubricant spray on the pushbutton mechanism might improve things.