It looks as if it's been stuck a while. The shaft will not turn. How do I free it up? It looks as if someone tried to force it and loosened up the nut and ripped off the back (just a shield). Where would I find a 1.3 Megohm control anyway? One terminal fell off one of the tone controls, on the end. But since they're used like rheostats, I just moved the wire to the other end. So that solved the tone control problem.
Someone broke the plastic (nylon?) nut that holds in the filter capacitor can. Are these still available?
I only have 3 capacitors left to go before testing it out. I'll let everyone know how it's working.
Thanks,
Dave
Auto parts stores have chemicals that can loosen up just about anything. Vintage auto restorers have this problem a lot more often than we do.
Don't try to force it or use WD-40. That won't be good enough.
I had one here with a stuck shaft. I pretty much destroyed it trying WD-40 on it. I got some stuff at the auto parts store and it loosened it up. I think there was some soaking involved.
Best Regards,
Bill Grimm
"Liquid Wrench" (in the oil can, not the spray variety) and similar products work OK for freeing up stuck shafts. I've seen this problem on SABAs and Telefunkens where the volume control is concentric with another control such as the internal antenna rotator. One shaft is steel and the other is brass or aluminum. I think that dissimilar metal corrosion caused by humidity causes them to lock up.
Apply the LW or similar ultra-low-viscosity penetrating oil (WD40 sucks for this job- it's too thick) and let it seep in for a couple of hours. Then use a hard-plastic-jawed pliers and gently work the control back and forth until it gives slightly. Flow in more LW and keep working the control until it breaks free. Applying a little heat may help, but take care not to ignite the oil.
Naturally, you will want to remove the glass dial and put it in a safe place before you attempt this.
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Hi, have had lots of luck with carburator cleaner spray. Just spray into the sleeve and shaft it breaks down the crud in seconds. Carburator cleaner leaves a little residue but works better than break cleaner that doesn't leave the residue. Rots of Ruck, George T
73's de Edd |
::Go with the heat...I usually use a lighter and heat the control shaft...then try to slowly work it as described by CV, and repeat as needed. Of course, if there's any plastic used on the vol control, the heat idea is not doable.
::
:Hi, have had lots of luck with carburator cleaner spray. Just spray into the sleeve and shaft it breaks down the crud in seconds. Carburator cleaner leaves a little residue but works better than break cleaner that doesn't leave the residue. Rots of Ruck, George T
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I'm going to take the control out to work on it. Yes the back shield is off but still attached by the resistor. I have the paper insulator. What I was thinking of doing to hold the back cover on is to either use tiny screws or use twisted solid wire. Then solder the twist so it doesn't come apart. The rivets have almost completely fallen out.
I don't think it should be too difficult to either repair or replace the control.
Thanks,
Dave
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:Sir Dave
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:That value is the "European" 1.3 meg value, feel free to use an audio taper in a 1.5 meg if you HAVE to order one, or even a dirt common 1 meg if you have to use whats on hand in your stock or to order, if a 1.5meg is not one of their common stock values.
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:On the old volume control . . .if my repair to perform . . . . . (I feel sure that if even with it having its the back cover/shell be loosing or missing.)
:An evaluation of the bushing and the control shaft will reveal the bushing and its locking control nut not freewheeling in the chassis mount hole, and still having the control bushing being solidly locked.
:This, then meaning that the control shaft has siezed within the bushing and in about ALL found situations, the siezing problem area is at the very front portion of the bushing.
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:I would then have the chassis out of the cabinet and knobs off and then at the very tip of the volume control shaft, and have a set of vise grip pliers clamped onto it at a 90 degree angle.
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:The control shaft should have either a 1 turn spring steel spiral turn snapped into a round groove at the apex of the shaft/bushing union OR a like round rectangular fashioned turn that rests in a squared groove in the shaft. Use of a scribe and a pair of mini dikes in conjunction, can spread open /or/ slide the turn out of the control shaft groove.
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:That then FULLY exposes the shaft/bushing union, for then placing the control shaft vertical, so that an initial gravity fed application of drops of Liquid "Wench" or Knock-er-Loose or just a solvent can then be made into the shaft/bushing area.
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:That will have gravity and capillary sucking action, transferring the light weight lube down into the internal shaft/bushing innards.
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:Then blot off excess fluid at the top of the bushing /shaft union area and let a paper towel edge wick up any excess.
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:Then add 2 or 3 drops of 30 weight motor oil just where you were working, and capillary wicking action will pull it in and then blend and intersperse with the light previous lube.
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:You will be surprised how well common motor oil works in this situation, but you INITIALLY have to get it DOWN into the problem area.
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:Otherwise, motor oil drops just tend to roll off, without dispersing internally WITHOUT the initial much lighter viscosity lube interdispersion.
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:Then initially try "guestimated" 1/64 of an inch alternate CW/CCW movements of the vice grips to sense that initial loosening of the shaft.
:If no loosening is detected, heat that union with a Master heat gun/or/500watt Black Beauty/Weller soldering iron or a mini propane torch.
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:I have 3 different mini/micro butane torches, A high dollar Master, a Harbor Freight(clogs easily) and an ECG "butane cigarette lighter cartridge" powered unit, that you just pull the milled thumb wheel off, from some 3 for a dollar store lighters used as refills.
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:As per:
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:Once you get that initial slight loosening of the shaft, its all downhill from there.
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:Thassit . . . . .
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:73's de Edd
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:Ever notice how our clothing pressing irons have a setting for " PERMANENT " press? . . . . . frankly, I just don't get it..
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:::Go with the heat...I usually use a lighter and heat the control shaft...then try to slowly work it as described by CV, and repeat as needed. Of course, if there's any plastic used on the vol control, the heat idea is not doable.
:::
::Hi, have had lots of luck with carburator cleaner spray. Just spray into the sleeve and shaft it breaks down the crud in seconds. Carburator cleaner leaves a little residue but works better than break cleaner that doesn't leave the residue. Rots of Ruck, George T
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That control was made out of pot metal. So any attempt to remove it just made it crumble and fall apart. So I replaced it with a 1 Meg ohm control and it works fine.
Now I need to replace the bass control because it seems to have a cracked carbon strip. Plus one of the leads fell off.
AM Broadcast band and FM work. But Shortwave (also AM) doesn't seem to work. Maybe I need to add a long wire to the radio, and it is working. It's only the low band with the highest frequency is 10 Mhz. So that could be the problem too.
Dave
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:Sir Dave
:
:
:That value is the "European" 1.3 meg value, feel free to use an audio taper in a 1.5 meg if you HAVE to order one, or even a dirt common 1 meg if you have to use whats on hand in your stock or to order, if a 1.5meg is not one of their common stock values.
:
:
:
:
:
:On the old volume control . . .if my repair to perform . . . . . (I feel sure that if even with it having its the back cover/shell be loosing or missing.)
:An evaluation of the bushing and the control shaft will reveal the bushing and its locking control nut not freewheeling in the chassis mount hole, and still having the control bushing being solidly locked.
:This, then meaning that the control shaft has siezed within the bushing and in about ALL found situations, the siezing problem area is at the very front portion of the bushing.
:
:
:I would then have the chassis out of the cabinet and knobs off and then at the very tip of the volume control shaft, and have a set of vise grip pliers clamped onto it at a 90 degree angle.
:
:
:The control shaft should have either a 1 turn spring steel spiral turn snapped into a round groove at the apex of the shaft/bushing union OR a like round rectangular fashioned turn that rests in a squared groove in the shaft. Use of a scribe and a pair of mini dikes in conjunction, can spread open /or/ slide the turn out of the control shaft groove.
:
:
:That then FULLY exposes the shaft/bushing union, for then placing the control shaft vertical, so that an initial gravity fed application of drops of Liquid "Wench" or Knock-er-Loose or just a solvent can then be made into the shaft/bushing area.
:
:
:That will have gravity and capillary sucking action, transferring the light weight lube down into the internal shaft/bushing innards.
:
:
:Then blot off excess fluid at the top of the bushing /shaft union area and let a paper towel edge wick up any excess.
:
:
:Then add 2 or 3 drops of 30 weight motor oil just where you were working, and capillary wicking action will pull it in and then blend and intersperse with the light previous lube.
:
:
:You will be surprised how well common motor oil works in this situation, but you INITIALLY have to get it DOWN into the problem area.
:
:
:Otherwise, motor oil drops just tend to roll off, without dispersing internally WITHOUT the initial much lighter viscosity lube interdispersion.
:
:
:Then initially try "guestimated" 1/64 of an inch alternate CW/CCW movements of the vice grips to sense that initial loosening of the shaft.
:If no loosening is detected, heat that union with a Master heat gun/or/500watt Black Beauty/Weller soldering iron or a mini propane torch.
:
:
:I have 3 different mini/micro butane torches, A high dollar Master, a Harbor Freight(clogs easily) and an ECG "butane cigarette lighter cartridge" powered unit, that you just pull the milled thumb wheel off, from some 3 for a dollar store lighters used as refills.
:
:
:As per:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:Once you get that initial slight loosening of the shaft, its all downhill from there.
:
:
:Thassit . . . . .
:
:
:
:73's de Edd
:
:
:
:
:Ever notice how our clothing pressing irons have a setting for " PERMANENT " press? . . . . . frankly, I just don't get it..
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:::Go with the heat...I usually use a lighter and heat the control shaft...then try to slowly work it as described by CV, and repeat as needed. Of course, if there's any plastic used on the vol control, the heat idea is not doable.
:::
::Hi, have had lots of luck with carburator cleaner spray. Just spray into the sleeve and shaft it breaks down the crud in seconds. Carburator cleaner leaves a little residue but works better than break cleaner that doesn't leave the residue. Rots of Ruck, George T
::
:
:
If the band is working at all, you should be able to pick up something (even just static) somewhere on the dial with a relatively short (10 feet) antenna. Most likely causes of a single dead band are (1)dirty bandswitch contacts; and (2) open antenna or oscillator coil.
It was two things. For some reason the EF89 failed one of the tests on my tube tester (grid circuit). Then SW was alive but the band switch is dirty. All is well now.
There was a broken capacitor (FM circuit) (cracked in half) behind the power switch. Every time it snaps back it hits that capacitor. When I replaced the capacitor, I relocated it so it couldn't get hit.
Dave
:: AM Broadcast band and FM work. But Shortwave (also AM) doesn't seem to work. Maybe I need to add a long wire to the radio, and it is working. It's only the low band with the highest frequency is 10 Mhz.
:
:
:If the band is working at all, you should be able to pick up something (even just static) somewhere on the dial with a relatively short (10 feet) antenna. Most likely causes of a single dead band are (1)dirty bandswitch contacts; and (2) open antenna or oscillator coil.
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