Working on a gilifillan t4 trf. I did a recap and the radio works no hum. The transformer is a blistering fire hazard. The power supply has a loud hum, almost sounds like a consistent electrical arc. Any ideas?

:Working on a gilifillan t4 trf. I did a recap and the radio works no hum. The transformer is a blistering fire hazard. The power supply has a loud hum, almost sounds like a consistent electrical arc. Any ideas?
:

Pull the rectifier tube and power the set up. Does the transformer still growl?

::Working on a gilifillan t4 trf. I did a recap and the radio works no hum. The transformer is a blistering fire hazard. The power supply has a loud hum, almost sounds like a consistent electrical arc. Any ideas?
::
:
:
:Pull the rectifier tube and power the set up. Does the transformer still growl?
:
:Pulled the rectifier and no growl.

::Pulled the rectifier and no growl.
:
:
So, that means that your heater winding is probably working OK. That can only mean that you have excessive current draw on the B+ bus. Prime suspect would be a workmanship problem (solder splash) associated with the recent recap job. Solder splashes are insidious because they can be higher resistance than zero-ohm shorts (and thus allow the radio to operate) but can still load down the B+ node.

Methodically examine each circuit branch that draws current off the B+ source node and you will discover what is drawing excessive current. There are only a few possibilities in a simple set like this. Don't be afraid to cut/unsolder/lift wires to isolate the problem. To state the obvious, limit the set's "on time" while doing this investigation to avoid fatally cooking the power transformer. Most sets aren't terribly robust when overloaded.

If the radio didn't growl before the recap, my money would be on a connection flub or solder splash. I understand that you may not have wanted to power up the set before recapping it out of fear of damaging it, but doing so may give good info if you can do it safely (i.e., with a Variac or dim-bulb rig). (For future reference only.)

If the B+ draws normal current (somewhere in the neighborhood of 80 mA, more or less) but the transformer still overheats/growls, you may have a bad power transformer. Stuff happens. To paraphrase Forrest Gump, antique radios are like a box of chocolates: you never know what you are going to get. A bad power tranny may have been why the set was retired, several decades ago. I hope not.

:
:::Pulled the rectifier and no growl.
::
::
:So, that means that your heater winding is probably working OK. That can only mean that you have excessive current draw on the B+ bus. Prime suspect would be a workmanship problem (solder splash) associated with the recent recap job. Solder splashes are insidious because they can be higher resistance than zero-ohm shorts (and thus allow the radio to operate) but can still load down the B+ node.
:
:Methodically examine each circuit branch that draws current off the B+ source node and you will discover what is drawing excessive current. There are only a few possibilities in a simple set like this. Don't be afraid to cut/unsolder/lift wires to isolate the problem. To state the obvious, limit the set's "on time" while doing this investigation to avoid fatally cooking the power transformer. Most sets aren't terribly robust when overloaded.
:
:If the radio didn't growl before the recap, my money would be on a connection flub or solder splash. I understand that you may not have wanted to power up the set before recapping it out of fear of damaging it, but doing so may give good info if you can do it safely (i.e., with a Variac or dim-bulb rig). (For future reference only.)
:
:If the B+ draws normal current (somewhere in the neighborhood of 80 mA, more or less) but the transformer still overheats/growls, you may have a bad power transformer. Stuff happens. To paraphrase Forrest Gump, antique radios are like a box of chocolates: you never know what you are going to get. A bad power tranny may have been why the set was retired, several decades ago. I hope not.
:
:
:CV thanks for taking the time for the explanation I'll tear back into it when i get of work

It is very easy to make a connection error when recapping a set. The phone or doorbell rings, and then you forget where you were.

My preference with an old radio is to first bring it up on a variac to see if it works. If not, I will troubleshoot and get it working, after a fashion, before wholesale recapping. Then, after each cap is replaced, check to see that the set is still working.

Also, don't disconnect both leads of the old cap at the same time. Disconnect one lead, leave the old cap dangling, and connect one lead of the replacement cap. Then do the second leads.

Pull the Rectifier tube and connect the radio to a dim bulb tester. If the bulb glows bright, your transformer or filament circuit has a short in it! If this is the case, shut it off and get a replacement transformer.

:Working on a gilifillan t4 trf. I did a recap and the radio works no hum. The transformer is a blistering fire hazard. The power supply has a loud hum, almost sounds like a consistent electrical arc. Any ideas?
: