Are you using the loop antenna that is correct for this set? It is a four-terminal unit which has a primary and a secondary. Use of a different loop antenna with incorrect impedance characteristics (especially on the secondary side, which is part of a tuned circuit) will result in very poor performance.
If your antenna is the correct (original) one for the set, are the four connections going to the right places as defined by the schematic? Swapping a couple of the connections could cause the antenna to not work at all.
Another thing to try is to ohm out the primary and secondary windings of the loop antenna. If you have an open, that will also cause the antenna to not operate.
Regarding the pilot light issue: this set takes a #51 bulb, which is a 13v lamp. Using something like the very common #47 bulb (6.3 V), which has the same base, will result in the lamp very quickly flaming out.
::Regarding the pilot light issue: this set takes a #51 bulb, which is a 13v lamp. Using something like the very common #47 bulb (6.3 V), which has the same base, will result in the lamp very quickly flaming out.
::I actually bought a #53 lamp from radio shack thats rated at 14.4 volts and 120mA. It was a pack of 2. The first lamp worked for about 1 minute and was glowing very bright the whole time then is burnt out while the radio was playing. I installed the second lamp right after that and turned it back on and it blew immediately. Im wondering if I have an issue with the 35Z5 rectifier tube causing an over voltage condition.
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I was mistaken on the rating for the #51 lamp: it is 7.5 V @ 220 mA. If you use a lamp with lower current draw it will not load the rectifier sufficiently and you will have an overvoltage condition. Use the correct lamp and then see if you still have a problem. These bulbs are 69 cents each online.
Okay, I will have to buy some and retry it. I got the antenna to work. I only have 2 leads coming out of the radio, so I took one lead and hooked it to one side of the antenna loop and took the other lead off the antenna loop and grounded it to the chassis and it works great. Im wondering what the other leak is for that goes to a capacitor and then to the 1st IF can?
I look at the schematics again and the 61-8 with the chassis #RC1034 has the 4 lead antenna. My radio is the chassis #RC1064 which only has 2 wires, one from the tuning capacitor and one that goes to a lug on the bottom of the chassis where 1 wire from terminal 4 of the 1st IF can and a .05 cap to ground all come together and are soldered onto the lug. This was how it was when I got and it may have been messed with before I got it.
Same general comment applies to the two-terminal version: the loop is part of a tuned circuit and using an incorrect loop will give poor results since it probably cannot be brought into resonance. You might try tuning to a strong station, then connect the loop antenna and tweak trimmer C2 to see if you can improve the reception. If the loop's inductance is way off from what the designed value should be, this probably will have little or no effect.
Thanks for the info Tom. You have been a big help. Im just glad I got the dang thing working!
It is designed for use with a doublet antenna, which I have, but wanted something more compact. I got a good deal on a Grundig tunable loop type.
On the Zenith there is an A Z and G terminal. If using a single wire antenna, it is connected to A, and Z & G are shorted. If a doublet is used, then its wires are connected to A & Z, and G can be grounded or floating - whichever gets better reception for your particular setup.
Now, my question : How (or should) the two wires of a loop be connected? Its different, since it is the same wire loop, and not discrete wires.
Thanks!
Dave
>Same general comment applies to the two->terminal version: the loop is part of a tuned >circuit and using an incorrect loop will give >poor results since it probably cannot be >brought into resonance. You might try tuning >to a strong station, then connect the loop >antenna and tweak trimmer C2 to see if you >can improve the reception. If the loop's >inductance is way off from what the designed >value should be, this probably will have little >or no effect.
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This set's front end was not designed to work with
a tunable loop, so don't expect much. You won't be able to accomplish impedance matching, which is critical for maximum coupling of received signals captured by the loop into the tuner. Four or five feet of plain wire draped behind the set would work better than a tunable loop antenna.
A common "user mod" for Zenith consoles of this era (pre-WW2) was to partially drive four heavy, wide wire staples into the inside of the rear cabinet frame, then thread insulated #24 AWG wire through them, forming a big square "loop" with 10-12 total turns. One end was connected to the set's "A" terminal, the other end was left disconnected. Generally worked OK for standard broadcast, less well for short wave.