The whole cabinet, less the top and stripes is faux finish and in too good of shape to remove. But it has marks on it like it was hauled around in a trailer next to a white cabinet or desk. Not really sure what the marks are.
Will a MinWax paste wax, or something remove these marks without destroying the original faux finish and forcing me to apply a clear finish coat over it?
Johnny
:
:The whole cabinet, less the top and stripes is faux finish and in too good of shape to remove. But it has marks on it like it was hauled around in a trailer next to a white cabinet or desk. Not really sure what the marks are.
:
:Will a MinWax paste wax, or something remove these marks without destroying the original faux finish and forcing me to apply a clear finish coat over it?
:
:
:
:Johnny
:
:
= = = = = = = =
The trick is to find a cleaning agent that will dissolve the marks but not attack the photofinish.
I would start by rubbing the marks with denatured alcohol. If no luck there, try mineral spirits or turpentine. Last resort would be lacquer thinner. Use
lacquer thinner sparingly since it is a very aggressive solvent.
If the white marks are actually gouges into the finish, forget about it- they ain't coming out. The best you can do is get most of the white stuff off then use earth-colored acrylic paints (light brown/tan/dark brown- the cheap Wal-Mart craft section stuff works great) and a fine brush to paint over the damaged sections, blending in with the grain pattern. An overspray with semigloss varnish will blend the painted area in with the photofinish and make it hard to detect.
If all else fails, you can strip the old finish off entirely and put a wrapper of paper-backed wood veneer on the case. That is my favorite way of dealing with damaged photofinish.
Johnny
::I have a Zenith cabinet that needed new veneer on the top and I'm re-finishing the black stripes on the bottom of the cabinet.
::
::The whole cabinet, less the top and stripes is faux finish and in too good of shape to remove. But it has marks on it like it was hauled around in a trailer next to a white cabinet or desk. Not really sure what the marks are.
::
::Will a MinWax paste wax, or something remove these marks without destroying the original faux finish and forcing me to apply a clear finish coat over it?
::
::
::
::Johnny
::
::
:= = = = = = = =
:
:The trick is to find a cleaning agent that will dissolve the marks but not attack the photofinish.
:I would start by rubbing the marks with denatured alcohol. If no luck there, try mineral spirits or turpentine. Last resort would be lacquer thinner. Use
:lacquer thinner sparingly since it is a very aggressive solvent.
:
:If the white marks are actually gouges into the finish, forget about it- they ain't coming out. The best you can do is get most of the white stuff off then use earth-colored acrylic paints (light brown/tan/dark brown- the cheap Wal-Mart craft section stuff works great) and a fine brush to paint over the damaged sections, blending in with the grain pattern. An overspray with semigloss varnish will blend the painted area in with the photofinish and make it hard to detect.
:
:If all else fails, you can strip the old finish off entirely and put a wrapper of paper-backed wood veneer on the case. That is my favorite way of dealing with damaged photofinish.
:
:
:
I just dealt with one. One of the tricks I found is that in gouged or split areas where a lighter color shows through I used a brown marker the same color as the dark parts to touch up. It helped a lot.
Looks like you have a 'Stars and Stripes' from 1939. Well worth the trouble.
It was produced for the 1939 model year. 1938 was the year where the depression had come back for its second dip. People wanted to hold on to their money so not as many were sold as in 1937 or 1938.
Best regards,
Bill
:Thanks Tom! I'll start with the denatured alcohol and go from there.
:
:Johnny
:
:
:::I have a Zenith cabinet that needed new veneer on the top and I'm re-finishing the black stripes on the bottom of the cabinet.
:::
:::The whole cabinet, less the top and stripes is faux finish and in too good of shape to remove. But it has marks on it like it was hauled around in a trailer next to a white cabinet or desk. Not really sure what the marks are.
:::
:::Will a MinWax paste wax, or something remove these marks without destroying the original faux finish and forcing me to apply a clear finish coat over it?
:::
:::
:::
:::Johnny
:::
:::
::= = = = = = = =
::
::The trick is to find a cleaning agent that will dissolve the marks but not attack the photofinish.
::I would start by rubbing the marks with denatured alcohol. If no luck there, try mineral spirits or turpentine. Last resort would be lacquer thinner. Use
::lacquer thinner sparingly since it is a very aggressive solvent.
::
::If the white marks are actually gouges into the finish, forget about it- they ain't coming out. The best you can do is get most of the white stuff off then use earth-colored acrylic paints (light brown/tan/dark brown- the cheap Wal-Mart craft section stuff works great) and a fine brush to paint over the damaged sections, blending in with the grain pattern. An overspray with semigloss varnish will blend the painted area in with the photofinish and make it hard to detect.
::
::If all else fails, you can strip the old finish off entirely and put a wrapper of paper-backed wood veneer on the case. That is my favorite way of dealing with damaged photofinish.
::
::
::
:
:
And Tom the denatured alcohol worked great.
Thanks,
Johnny
:Hi Johnny,
:I just dealt with one. One of the tricks I found is that in gouged or split areas where a lighter color shows through I used a brown marker the same color as the dark parts to touch up. It helped a lot.
:
:Looks like you have a 'Stars and Stripes' from 1939. Well worth the trouble.
:It was produced for the 1939 model year. 1938 was the year where the depression had come back for its second dip. People wanted to hold on to their money so not as many were sold as in 1937 or 1938.
:
:Best regards,
:
:Bill
:
::Thanks Tom! I'll start with the denatured alcohol and go from there.
::
::Johnny
::
::
::::I have a Zenith cabinet that needed new veneer on the top and I'm re-finishing the black stripes on the bottom of the cabinet.
::::
::::The whole cabinet, less the top and stripes is faux finish and in too good of shape to remove. But it has marks on it like it was hauled around in a trailer next to a white cabinet or desk. Not really sure what the marks are.
::::
::::Will a MinWax paste wax, or something remove these marks without destroying the original faux finish and forcing me to apply a clear finish coat over it?
::::
::::
::::
::::Johnny
::::
::::
:::= = = = = = = =
:::
:::The trick is to find a cleaning agent that will dissolve the marks but not attack the photofinish.
:::I would start by rubbing the marks with denatured alcohol. If no luck there, try mineral spirits or turpentine. Last resort would be lacquer thinner. Use
:::lacquer thinner sparingly since it is a very aggressive solvent.
:::
:::If the white marks are actually gouges into the finish, forget about it- they ain't coming out. The best you can do is get most of the white stuff off then use earth-colored acrylic paints (light brown/tan/dark brown- the cheap Wal-Mart craft section stuff works great) and a fine brush to paint over the damaged sections, blending in with the grain pattern. An overspray with semigloss varnish will blend the painted area in with the photofinish and make it hard to detect.
:::
:::If all else fails, you can strip the old finish off entirely and put a wrapper of paper-backed wood veneer on the case. That is my favorite way of dealing with damaged photofinish.
:::
:::
:::
::
::
:
:
:
:And Tom the denatured alcohol worked great.
:
:Thanks,
:Johnny
:
= = = = = =
Yes, they make brown-ink felttip markers in both the classic "big tip" style for posters and also the fine point variety. If you go to a decent hardware or other store that sells wood refinishing supplies, you can also find felt-tip pens that are specifically made for furniture stain scratch touch-up. (I hate to plug Wal-Mart, but I know for a fact that they carry these.) These markers come in various popular wood-finish colors. I have used these and they work well, but seem to me to be a little pricey for what they are.
::
::And Tom the denatured alcohol worked great.
::
::Thanks,
::Johnny
::
: = = = = = =
:
:Yes, they make brown-ink felttip markers in both the classic "big tip" style for posters and also the fine point variety. If you go to a decent hardware or other store that sells wood refinishing supplies, you can also find felt-tip pens that are specifically made for furniture stain scratch touch-up. (I hate to plug Wal-Mart, but I know for a fact that they carry these.) These markers come in various popular wood-finish colors. I have used these and they work well, but seem to me to be a little pricey for what they are.
:
Johnny:
Those "Sharpies" come in all sorts of colors, my wife makes scarves out of silk, using several colors of them, then bleeds the colors with 93% rubbing alcohol. One other thing, I sometimes use a MILD rubbing compound (actually used for mag wheels), but it removes things like rubbed on paint while leaving the underneath alone. Watch out for things that are oil based, like mineral spirits before you apply finish, residue can cause what body shops call "fish eyes", low places where the finish doesn't properly mate with the surface. Oh, and have a little celebratory "good natured" alcohol after work, if you are so inclined.
Lewis
::
::And Tom the denatured alcohol worked great.
::
::Thanks,
::Johnny
::
: = = = = = =
:
:Yes, they make brown-ink felttip markers in both the classic "big tip" style for posters and also the fine point variety. If you go to a decent hardware or other store that sells wood refinishing supplies, you can also find felt-tip pens that are specifically made for furniture stain scratch touch-up. (I hate to plug Wal-Mart, but I know for a fact that they carry these.) These markers come in various popular wood-finish colors. I have used these and they work well, but seem to me to be a little pricey for what they are.
:
Did so and here's my finished product. Faux finish is still a little fragile and will some day start flaking away but for now I think it looks okay.
Thanks for all the help.
Johnny
:::
:::And Tom the denatured alcohol worked great.
:::
:::Thanks,
:::Johnny
:::
:: = = = = = =
::
::Yes, they make brown-ink felttip markers in both the classic "big tip" style for posters and also the fine point variety. If you go to a decent hardware or other store that sells wood refinishing supplies, you can also find felt-tip pens that are specifically made for furniture stain scratch touch-up. (I hate to plug Wal-Mart, but I know for a fact that they carry these.) These markers come in various popular wood-finish colors. I have used these and they work well, but seem to me to be a little pricey for what they are.
::
:Did so and here's my finished product. Faux finish is still a little fragile and will some day start flaking away but for now I think it looks okay.
:
:Thanks for all the help.
:
:
:
:
:
:Johnny
Johnny:
Looks great. Congrats.
Lewis
:
The sources for the brown markers given by others are all good. I get them from an art supply store only because it happens to be close. K-Mart has them, too.
The inside of your radio is shockingly clean. It looks like new!
Well done.
Looks like all engraved base Zenith tubes, too.
Best Regards,
Bill Grimm