I got this for free and need to put a new string on it. What is the secret for fully separating the cases? One side came out smoothly the other is hanging up. I also discovered that I can use a modern 9 volt battery instead of the 6 c cells that are the original I just have to make a harness to connect both battery receptors.

:I got this for free and need to put a new string on it. What is the secret for fully separating the cases? One side came out smoothly the other is hanging up. I also discovered that I can use a modern 9 volt battery instead of the 6 c cells that are the original I just have to make a harness to connect both battery receptors.
:
= = = = = = =

Grundig made several versions of the 500 over several years, so your edition may be "special"; but generally, its just a matter of removing the rear half of the case (screws) then carefully examining the exposed circuit board and speaker for more screws that secure these parts to the front half of the case. Generally these screws are marked with a dab of paint as a staking agent but this can also help you locate which screws need to be removed. Keep track of "which screw goes where" as they are probably of different lengths and/or diameters.

You can replace 6 "C" cells with a 9 volt battery, but you probably won't be pleased with the short battery life of the 9 V unit.

::I got this for free and need to put a new string on it. What is the secret for fully separating the cases? One side came out smoothly the other is hanging up. I also discovered that I can use a modern 9 volt battery instead of the 6 c cells that are the original I just have to make a harness to connect both battery receptors.
::
:= = = = = = =
:
:Grundig made several versions of the 500 over several years, so your edition may be "special"; but generally, its just a matter of removing the rear half of the case (screws) then carefully examining the exposed circuit board and speaker for more screws that secure these parts to the front half of the case. Generally these screws are marked with a dab of paint as a staking agent but this can also help you locate which screws need to be removed. Keep track of "which screw goes where" as they are probably of different lengths and/or diameters.
:
:You can replace 6 "C" cells with a 9 volt battery, but you probably won't be pleased with the short battery life of the 9 V unit.
:
thanks for the reply and info. Would you happen to know where I can get a schematic of how the tuning string runs? The 6 C cell holder needs to be resoldered, That's on the agenda. again, thanks

:thanks for the reply and info. Would you happen to know where I can get a schematic of how the tuning string runs? The 6 C cell holder needs to be resoldered, That's on the agenda. again, thanks
:
= = = = = =

Can't help with the "official" dial cord routing but this set just has one tuning cord so it shouldn't be too tough to puzzle out. I would use 20 lb test woven nylon fishing line (not monofilament). Wrap the cord around the drive axle (tuning knob shaft) 3 times. The only thing to watch out for is to make sure that you have the tuning cap and dial indicator synched before you start stringing (tuning cap fully closed, tuning indicator at "low" end of scale) and wrap the cord around the drive axle in the direction that drives the tuning cap toward the "open" (less capacity) position. If you don't like the way the set tunes you may need to reverse the cord winding direction on the drive axle.

This is a lot more words than the problem is worth- if you just look at it, you will be able to figure it out with no trouble.

:
::thanks for the reply and info. Would you happen to know where I can get a schematic of how the tuning string runs? The 6 C cell holder needs to be resoldered, That's on the agenda. again, thanks
::
:= = = = = =
:
:Can't help with the "official" dial cord routing but this set just has one tuning cord so it shouldn't be too tough to puzzle out. I would use 20 lb test woven nylon fishing line (not monofilament). Wrap the cord around the drive axle (tuning knob shaft) 3 times. The only thing to watch out for is to make sure that you have the tuning cap and dial indicator synched before you start stringing (tuning cap fully closed, tuning indicator at "low" end of scale) and wrap the cord around the drive axle in the direction that drives the tuning cap toward the "open" (less capacity) position. If you don't like the way the set tunes you may need to reverse the cord winding direction on the drive axle.
:
:This is a lot more words than the problem is worth- if you just look at it, you will be able to figure it out with no trouble.
:
Tom, thanks for the help. I got the case apart, the antennae needed to be fully extended. After that I found the tuning string is broken and the spring that provides tension stuck to the speaker magnet. I need to find out where the spring mounts and then I should be able to figure out what the string track is. I'm a total newbie at this kind of work and just started doing it because I couldn't let things like this get thrown out. Again. thanks.