The best way to tell for certain is to trace the set's wiring. One wire to the first capacitor will go to the filament circuit of the rectifier tube; that same wire will also run over to the filter choke. The other wire from the filter choke will go to the other filter capacitor and then to the B+ bus in the set. (Let the schematic tell you what to look for vis a vis actual connections rather than relying on a disembodied internet being's less than encyclopedic memory).
Once you have verified the identity of the parts, you can replace them with new 8 MFD 450 volt axial-leaded electrolytics. You can get these via PayPal/online mail order from justradios.com (the seller I use and like) or several other vendors.
The new caps will be physically tiny compared with the originals, so you can either remove the OEM caps and wire the new parts in their place, or "empty out" the OEM containers and install the new parts inside them. I don't recommend the second option unless you know what you are doing, since the old caps are probably "wet electrolytics" and even after all these years may will contain a caustic fluid (the electrolyte).
The new electrolytic caps are polarized so it's important to install them in the correct "direction" (lead that's on the black insulated end of the tubular part goes to the "hot" side of the circuit; lead that's on the uninsulated (bare aluminum) end of the part goes to ground). This is important- if you reverse the parts, they will fail almost immediately.
Due to the physical size of this set, you may find the new caps' leads to be too short. It is no problem to extend them- this won't cause a problem as long as you keep the extension wires as short as possible to do the job.
Don't wire the new caps in parallel with the old ones; This may work OK for a time but it leaves the radio vulnerable to one of the old caps shorting out; its best to get it out of the circuit where it can't cause future trouble. (You can leave the old caps in place in the chassis, just make sure that you disconnect them).
That's pretty much it. Some of these screen grid tube TRF sets were excellent performers, and some weren't. Don't know where yours falls. They were a great improvement tech-wise over the neutrodyne, however- these tended to be fussy to set up, with a single RF amp tube replacement necessitating an "alignment".