"It's a mica compression trimmer with extra fixed elements, to create an additional capacitor. While you don't see them every day, they are not uncommon. Instead of having four solder lugs on the ceramic base of the trimmer, there will be five, sometimes six."
Dennis
BTW, the caps that you circled are the secondary resonance-tuning caps and as such are probably unlikely to be the culprit in any fault scenario (not impossible, just unlikely). The fixed cap that is hanging off the compression cap is used to establish the "baseline" capacitance for the secondary tuned circuit, with the variable cap used to pull the circuit into precise resonance.
A couple things. Don't just jump in new electrolytic caps. Old ones need to be disconnected. They can and often are leaky lowering voltage. Pulsing sound is an indication these caps are bad.
Measure grid #1 voltage on 50A5 in relation to cathode. Grid #1 needs to be around 5 volts Negative. If zero or positive the tube will draw too much current.
By doing the above two things you should find the problem.
Norm
:Something is sucking down the B+. Most expeditious way to find out is to start at the B+ fanout and use your dikes on each branch in turn until the voltage jumps back up to nominal. Then examine the parts on the failed branch one-by-one until you find the offender. Since set has been recapped, I would look for an induced short (solder splash or errant component lead). You may be able to save a little time by first disconnecting the main B+ node and seeing if the power supply can deliver the correct B+ voltage in a no-load situation.
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:BTW, the caps that you circled are the secondary resonance-tuning caps and as such are probably unlikely to be the culprit in any fault scenario (not impossible, just unlikely). The fixed cap that is hanging off the compression cap is used to establish the "baseline" capacitance for the secondary tuned circuit, with the variable cap used to pull the circuit into precise resonance.
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You might verify that all of the tube shields are present and are making electrical contact with the chassis. Omitting a shield from a glass-envelope tube, or a poorly-grounded shield, can result in the "motorboating" problem that you describe.
Some sets were designed to use steel-case tubes- if so, they do not need shields- these sets have the sockets wired to ensure that the steel case is grounded. This isn't necessarily true of sets designed to use glass tubes, so "mixing and matching" metal and glass tubes can sometimes cause problems, although not frequently enough for most people to be aware of the problem potential.