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How to repair or replace small power transformer leads
1/16/2013 7:25:50 PMNoel
Hello,

Have a small power transformer salvaged from an old non-working radio. The transformer is good, provides about 250VCT, 5V, 6.3V. Would like to use it in a power supply application for a regenerative receiver. The problem is that the lead insulation is very brittle and flaking off.

The transformer is a horizontal, in-chassis mount style. I removed the end bells and see that the leads internally seem to be OK but are too short to try and splice new leads to them. These short lengths are brittle and may also start flaking off when I disturb them.

Is it possible to attach new leads directly to the coils and eliminate the original short lead lengths or is this too difficult a task? Are the coils, where the original leads are attached, easily accessible so that new leads can be attached?

Looking for some help with this before starting to "dig" into it only to realize that it isn't very practical (or very safe) to try. On the other hand, a new transformer from AES is quite expensive.

Thanks in advance, Noel

1/17/2013 11:26:06 AMRich, W3HWJ
Perhaps this might help?

http://www.chimeralabs.com/transrebuild.html

I've done some repairs using heatshrink tubing to cover the new wires that I soldered on to the old ones.
Rich


:Hello,
:
:Have a small power transformer salvaged from an old non-working radio. The transformer is good, provides about 250VCT, 5V, 6.3V. Would like to use it in a power supply application for a regenerative receiver. The problem is that the lead insulation is very brittle and flaking off.
:
:The transformer is a horizontal, in-chassis mount style. I removed the end bells and see that the leads internally seem to be OK but are too short to try and splice new leads to them. These short lengths are brittle and may also start flaking off when I disturb them.
:
:Is it possible to attach new leads directly to the coils and eliminate the original short lead lengths or is this too difficult a task? Are the coils, where the original leads are attached, easily accessible so that new leads can be attached?
:
:Looking for some help with this before starting to "dig" into it only to realize that it isn't very practical (or very safe) to try. On the other hand, a new transformer from AES is quite expensive.
:
:Thanks in advance, Noel
:

1/17/2013 11:28:52 AMRich, W3HWJ
Here is another:
http://books.google.com/books?id=xd4DAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA308&lpg=PA308&dq=rebuilding+transformer&source=bl&ots=cbxcMJTrQ9&sig=rJaAAX1txamoQeqHMr0DFlWXYcE&hl=en&sa=X&ei=5jP4UJ_4BOThiwK7hoDoAw&ved=0CFYQ6AEwBQ#v=onepage&q=rebuilding%20transformer&f=false

RICH

:Perhaps this might help?
:
:http://www.chimeralabs.com/transrebuild.html
:
:I've done some repairs using heatshrink tubing to cover the new wires that I soldered on to the old ones.
:Rich
:
:
::Hello,
::
::Have a small power transformer salvaged from an old non-working radio. The transformer is good, provides about 250VCT, 5V, 6.3V. Would like to use it in a power supply application for a regenerative receiver. The problem is that the lead insulation is very brittle and flaking off.
::
::The transformer is a horizontal, in-chassis mount style. I removed the end bells and see that the leads internally seem to be OK but are too short to try and splice new leads to them. These short lengths are brittle and may also start flaking off when I disturb them.
::
::Is it possible to attach new leads directly to the coils and eliminate the original short lead lengths or is this too difficult a task? Are the coils, where the original leads are attached, easily accessible so that new leads can be attached?
::
::Looking for some help with this before starting to "dig" into it only to realize that it isn't very practical (or very safe) to try. On the other hand, a new transformer from AES is quite expensive.
::
::Thanks in advance, Noel
::
:
:

1/17/2013 1:13:55 PMLewis
:Here is another:
:http://books.google.com/books?id=xd4DAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA308&lpg=PA308&dq=rebuilding+transformer&source=bl&ots=cbxcMJTrQ9&sig=rJaAAX1txamoQeqHMr0DFlWXYcE&hl=en&sa=X&ei=5jP4UJ_4BOThiwK7hoDoAw&ved=0CFYQ6AEwBQ#v=onepage&q=rebuilding%20transformer&f=false
:
:RICH
:
::Perhaps this might help?
::
::http://www.chimeralabs.com/transrebuild.html
::
::I've done some repairs using heatshrink tubing to cover the new wires that I soldered on to the old ones.
::Rich

I was going to say that, Rich......cut the old leads about 1/2 inch, and splice some new wiring to them. I do not wrap the wires, just lay them together and solder. Then put heat shrink as close to the transformer as you can, and have about one inch covering the new wires. Of course, if you can get into the old transformer and replace the whole lead, it will be better, but some of those wires in there are Mighteeeee easy to break beyond repair.
Lewis

1/17/2013 3:13:29 PMEdd
:Here is another:
:http://books.google.com/books?id=xd4DAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA308&lpg=PA308&dq=rebuilding+transformer&source=bl&ots=cbxcMJTrQ9&sig=rJaAAX1txamoQeqHMr0DFlWXYcE&hl=en&sa=X&ei=5jP4UJ_4BOThiwK7hoDoAw&ved=0CFYQ6AEwBQ#v=onepage&q=rebuilding%20transformer&f=false
:
:RICH
:
::Perhaps this might help?
::
::http://www.chimeralabs.com/transrebuild.html
::
::I've done some repairs using heatshrink tubing to cover the new wires that I soldered on to the old ones.
::Rich
::
::
:::Hello,
:::
:::Have a small power transformer salvaged from an old non-working radio. The transformer is good, provides about 250VCT, 5V, 6.3V. Would like to use it in a power supply application for a regenerative receiver. The problem is that the lead insulation is very brittle and flaking off.
:::
:::The transformer is a horizontal, in-chassis mount style. I removed the end bells and see that the leads internally seem to be OK but are too short to try and splice new leads to them. These short lengths are brittle and may also start flaking off when I disturb them.
:::
:::Is it possible to attach new leads directly to the coils and eliminate the original short lead lengths or is this too difficult a task? Are the coils, where the original leads are attached, easily accessible so that new leads can be attached?
:::
:::Looking for some help with this before starting to "dig" into it only to realize that it isn't very practical (or very safe) to try. On the other hand, a new transformer from AES is quite expensive.
:::
:::Thanks in advance, Noel
:::
::
::
:
:









Sir Noel. . . .


Initially, let me thank the Right Honorable and Esteemed Rich . . . . Esq. for those two informative links.


Now the first one FULLY covered the aspects of the moisture extraction and potting of a T-former.
With the second article going back to the 20-30's time frame and the remaking/ rewinding of "crude "
I bar transformers.


ASIDE:


(Matter of fact I have used that I bar core design. But, with being my from a rock hard scrabble small
Texas town. (population minus 12) I referenced to the Boy Experimenter magazine and saw that they
were using bound together iron wires.


Now MY iron wires turned out to be "baling wire" and I had strung out ~ a hundred feet of it between a mulberry tree trunk and the Model A Ford's bumper.


Mom then backed up the car for me about a foot, until that stretched wire was coming in tune to "E sharp".


That had left the wire perfectly straight and flat for me to cut down into 3 inch lengths to be bound together with sewing thread to make an I bar core and then being overall coated with shellac.


END:


ASIDE 2 . . . . on WWW.chimeralabs.com which is the basic URL root supply routing source that is hosting that transformer potting article by Dennis Boyle:


Now Dennis was indeed a sane person and its tech content depicted himself as such, but additionally refer to an adjunct article on some "audio cables" and those FULL BLOWN WACKO's . . . . and that's heav-e e e e on the W_A_C_K_O_'S.


I'd just LOVE to do a double blind aural labaratory acoustical performance test with any one of them !


Reference:





> > > . . . . "Breaking in" audio cables . . . . . >
 < < <





END:




Now . . . . . in gettin' back to 'bidness !

No where in those articles, do I see the further SPECIFIC treatment of the aspect of handling terminal / lead interfacing.


In my boxes of pulled power transformers, I am always finding clipped leads that merely leave one or two inch stubs.


And I am one HEAVY recycler of Power T-formers . . . becuz they wuz FREEBIES to me!


Just about all are using braided cotton sheath for the overcovering . . . . being in the product develolpmental time frame PRIOR to the use of a modern total single polyvinyl outer insulation.


BUT their fallacy is REALLY just below, as the internal plastic or rubber insulation covering of the lead wire proper.


Put a pair of dikes or simple "scissor" wire stripper tool to those lead ends and that insulation just crumbles.


What I do is to use Crystal Clear, ( made by Krylon), or Elsie the Cow, and spray an amount into its cap, so that a artistes brush can then be used for its application.


(My earlier explorations and trials had me initially using thinned clear airplane dope, or thinned clear fingernail polish.


After spraying a coat of Crystal Clear upon a sheet of paper and flexing it . . . .even into a complete fold . . . and seeing no fracturing of the applied coating or ANY flaking off, I now use it exclusively. And it REALLY soaks in.

It is thin enough to soak into the wire stubs insulative covering(s),and even MORESO if you use a blow driers HEAT to warm them up. Put on multiple coatings until it passes the test of beng able to strip a wires end back ~ 1/4 inch.


Then you flux and tin it and solder tack on your desired replacement wire length.


What I then like to use over that joint, is an insulative coating of some of the Puffy Paint that one squeeze applies with its end applicator hole, to then dry or even multicoat.


Its actually being liquid vinyl . . . . . that I gets at my nearby "Wally Woild " ( or a crafts / hobby shop ) as:




http://i.walmartimages.com/i/p/00/01/77/54/26/0001775426207_300X300.jpg>


http://i.walmartimages.com/i/p/00/01/77/54/26/0001775426209_300X300.jpg>


http://i.walmartimages.com/i/p/00/01/77/54/26/0001775426208_300X300.jpg>



I have built up a complete color coded set of them.



When happy with that initial, form fitting conformal insulative covering, then additionally cover up with a short length or telescoped sets of heat shrink tubing.


The other mounting terminal aspect that I sometimes run into, is there being a cardboard / stiff fishpaper square mounted on the flat side of the transformer , that incorporates individual small metal clasping tabs that are wrapping around the centers of the incoming lead wires.


They surround and hold them in place upon the insulator sheet, while the actual copper winding wires come up and wrap around the bared ends of the lead wires.


This construction type should present no problem to be able to replace wires on.




73's de Edd




I just now realized that I have used up all of my sick days, so I'm calling in dead.








1/17/2013 3:55:20 PMPuffy HTML was trashed
::Here is another:
::http://books.google.com/books?id=xd4DAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA308&lpg=PA308&dq=rebuilding+transformer&source=bl&ots=cbxcMJTrQ9&sig=rJaAAX1txamoQeqHMr0DFlWXYcE&hl=en&sa=X&ei=5jP4UJ_4BOThiwK7hoDoAw&ved=0CFYQ6AEwBQ#v=onepage&q=rebuilding%20transformer&f=false
::
::RICH
::
:::Perhaps this might help?
:::
:::http://www.chimeralabs.com/transrebuild.html
:::
:::I've done some repairs using heatshrink tubing to cover the new wires that I soldered on to the old ones.
:::Rich
:::
:::
::::Hello,
::::
::::Have a small power transformer salvaged from an old non-working radio. The transformer is good, provides about 250VCT, 5V, 6.3V. Would like to use it in a power supply application for a regenerative receiver. The problem is that the lead insulation is very brittle and flaking off.
::::
::::The transformer is a horizontal, in-chassis mount style. I removed the end bells and see that the leads internally seem to be OK but are too short to try and splice new leads to them. These short lengths are brittle and may also start flaking off when I disturb them.
::::
::::Is it possible to attach new leads directly to the coils and eliminate the original short lead lengths or is this too difficult a task? Are the coils, where the original leads are attached, easily accessible so that new leads can be attached?
::::
::::Looking for some help with this before starting to "dig" into it only to realize that it isn't very practical (or very safe) to try. On the other hand, a new transformer from AES is quite expensive.
::::
::::Thanks in advance, Noel
::::
:::
:::









Sir . . . .


Initially, let me thank the Right Honorable and Esteemed Rich . . . . Esq. for those two informative links.


Now the first one FULLY covered the aspects of the moisture extraction and potting of a T-former.
With the second article going back to the 20-30's time frame and the remaking/ rewinding of "crude "
I bar transformers.


ASIDE:


(Matter of fact I have used that I bar core design. But, with being my from a rock hard scrabble small Texas town. (population minus 12).

I made referencing to ye olde Boy Experimenter magazine and saw that they
were using bound together iron wires.


Now MY iron wires turned out to be "baling wire" and I had strung out ~ a hundred feet or so of it between a mulberry tree trunk and the Model A Ford's bumper.


Mom then backed up the car for me about a foot, until that taunt wire then stretched and was coming in tune to "E-Sharp".


That had then left the wire perfectly straight and flat for me to further cut down into 3 inch lengths to be bound together with sewing thread and make an I bar core that was then being overall coated with shellac.


END:


ASIDE 2 . . . . on WWW.chimeralabs.com which is the basic URL root supply routing source that is hosting that transformer potting article by Dennis Boyle:


Now Dennis was indeed a sane person and its tech content depicted himself as such, but additionally refer to an adjunct article on some "audio cables" and those FULL BLOWN WACKO's . . . . and that's heav-e e e e on the W_A_C_K_O_'S.


I'd just LOVE to do a double blind aural labaratory acoustical performance test with any one of them !


Reference:





> > > . . . . "Breaking in" audio cables . . . . . >
 < < <





END:




Now . . . . . in gettin' back to 'bidness !

No where in those articles, do I see the further SPECIFIC treatment of the aspect of handling terminal / lead interfacing.


In my boxes of pulled power transformers, I am always finding clipped leads that merely leave one or two inch stubs.


And I am one HEAVY recycler of Power T-formers . . . becuz they wuz FREEBIES to me!


Just about all are using braided cotton sheath for the overcovering . . . . being in the product develolpmental time frame PRIOR to the use of a modern total single polyvinyl outer insulation.


BUT their fallacy is REALLY just below, as the internal plastic or rubber insulation covering of the lead wire proper.


Put a pair of dikes or simple "scissor" wire stripper tool to those lead ends and that insulation just crumbles.


What I do is to use Crystal Clear, ( made by Krylon), or Elsie the Cow, and spray an amount into its cap, so that a artistes brush can then be used for its application.


(My earlier explorations and trials had me initially using thinned clear airplane dope, or thinned clear fingernail polish.


After spraying a coat of Crystal Clear upon a sheet of paper and flexing it . . . .even into a complete fold . . . and seeing no fracturing of the applied coating or ANY flaking off, I now use it exclusively. And it REALLY soaks in.

It is thin enough to soak into the wire stubs insulative covering(s),and even MORESO if you use a blow driers HEAT to warm them up. Put on multiple coatings until it passes the test of beng able to strip a wires end back ~ 1/4 inch.


Then you flux and tin it and solder tack on your desired replacement wire length.


What I then like to use over that joint, is an insulative coating of some of the Puffy Paint that one squeeze applies with its end applicator hole, to then dry or even multicoat.


Its actually being liquid vinyl . . . . . that I gets at my nearby "Wally Woild " ( or a crafts / hobby shop ) as:




http://i.walmartimages.com/i/p/00/01/77/54/26/0001775426207_300X300.jpg>http://i.walmartimages.com/i/p/00/01/77/54/26/0001775426209_300X300.jpg>http://i.walmartimages.com/i/p/00/01/77/54/26/0001775426208_300X300.jpg>



I have built up a complete color coded set of them.



When happy with that initial, form fitting conformal insulative covering, then additionally cover up with a short length or telescoped sets of heat shrink tubing.


The other mounting terminal aspect that I sometimes run into, is there being a cardboard / stiff fishpaper square mounted on the flat side of the transformer , that incorporates individual small metal clasping tabs that are wrapping around the centers of the incoming lead wires.


They surround and hold them in place upon the insulator sheet, while the actual copper winding wires come up and wrap around the bared ends of the lead wires.


This construction type should present no problem to be able to replace wires on.




73's de Edd




I just now realized that I have used up all of my sick days, so I'm calling in dead.
















Sir . . . .


Initially, let me thank the Right Honorable and Esteemed Rich . . . . Esq. for those two informative links.


Now the first one FULLY covered the aspects of the moisture extraction and potting of a T-former.
With the second article going back to the 20-30's time frame and the remaking/ rewinding of "crude "
I bar transformers.


ASIDE:


(Matter of fact I have used that I bar core design. But, with being my from a rock hard scrabble small Texas town. (population minus 12).

I made referencing to ye olde Boy Experimenter magazine and saw that they
were using bound together iron wires.


Now MY iron wires turned out to be "baling wire" and I had strung out ~ a hundred feet or so of it between a mulberry tree trunk and the Model A Ford's bumper.


Mom then backed up the car for me about a foot, until that taunt wire then stretched and was coming in tune to "E-Sharp".


That had then left the wire perfectly straight and flat for me to further cut down into 3 inch lengths to be bound together with sewing thread and make an I bar core that was then being overall coated with shellac.


END:


ASIDE 2 . . . . on WWW.chimeralabs.com which is the basic URL root supply routing source that is hosting that transformer potting article by Dennis Boyle:


Now Dennis was indeed a sane person and its tech content depicted himself as such, but additionally refer to an adjunct article on some "audio cables" and those FULL BLOWN WACKO's . . . . and that's heav-e e e e on the W_A_C_K_O_'S.


I'd just LOVE to do a double blind aural labaratory acoustical performance test with any one of them !


Reference:





> > > . . . . "Breaking in" audio cables . . . . . >
 < < <





END:




Now . . . . . in gettin' back to 'bidness !

No where in those articles, do I see the further SPECIFIC treatment of the aspect of handling terminal / lead interfacing.


In my boxes of pulled power transformers, I am always finding clipped leads that merely leave one or two inch stubs.


And I am one HEAVY recycler of Power T-formers . . . becuz they wuz FREEBIES to me!


Just about all are using braided cotton sheath for the overcovering . . . . being in the product develolpmental time frame PRIOR to the use of a modern total single polyvinyl outer insulation.


BUT their fallacy is REALLY just below, as the internal plastic or rubber insulation covering of the lead wire proper.


Put a pair of dikes or simple "scissor" wire stripper tool to those lead ends and that insulation just crumbles.


What I do is to use Crystal Clear, ( made by Krylon), or Elsie the Cow, and spray an amount into its cap, so that a artistes brush can then be used for its application.


(My earlier explorations and trials had me initially using thinned clear airplane dope, or thinned clear fingernail polish.


After spraying a coat of Crystal Clear upon a sheet of paper and flexing it . . . .even into a complete fold . . . and seeing no fracturing of the applied coating or ANY flaking off, I now use it exclusively. And it REALLY soaks in.

It is thin enough to soak into the wire stubs insulative covering(s),and even MORESO if you use a blow driers HEAT to warm them up. Put on multiple coatings until it passes the test of beng able to strip a wires end back ~ 1/4 inch.


Then you flux and tin it and solder tack on your desired replacement wire length.


What I then like to use over that joint, is an insulative coating of some of the Puffy Paint that one squeeze applies with its end applicator hole, to then dry or even multicoat.


Its actually being liquid vinyl . . . . . that I gets at my nearby "Wally Woild " ( or a crafts / hobby shop ) as:




http://i.walmartimages.com/i/p/00/01/77/54/26/0001775426207_300X300.jpg>http://i.walmartimages.com/i/p/00/01/77/54/26/0001775426209_300X300.jpg>http://i.walmartimages.com/i/p/00/01/77/54/26/0001775426208_300X300.jpg>



I have built up a complete color coded set of them.



When happy with that initial, form fitting conformal insulative covering, then additionally cover up with a short length or telescoped sets of heat shrink tubing.


The other mounting terminal aspect that I sometimes run into, is there being a cardboard / stiff fishpaper square mounted on the flat side of the transformer , that incorporates individual small metal clasping tabs that are wrapping around the centers of the incoming lead wires.


They surround and hold them in place upon the insulator sheet, while the actual copper winding wires come up and wrap around the bared ends of the lead wires.


This construction type should present no problem to be able to replace wires on.




73's de Edd




I just now realized that I have used up all of my sick days, so I'm calling in dead.









1/17/2013 4:10:30 PMTwice . . .ed
:::Here is another:
:::http://books.google.com/books?id=xd4DAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA308&lpg=PA308&dq=rebuilding+transformer&source=bl&ots=cbxcMJTrQ9&sig=rJaAAX1txamoQeqHMr0DFlWXYcE&hl=en&sa=X&ei=5jP4UJ_4BOThiwK7hoDoAw&ved=0CFYQ6AEwBQ#v=onepage&q=rebuilding%20transformer&f=false
:::
:::RICH
:::
::::Perhaps this might help?
::::
::::http://www.chimeralabs.com/transrebuild.html
::::
::::I've done some repairs using heatshrink tubing to cover the new wires that I soldered on to the old ones.
::::Rich
::::
::::
:::::Hello,
:::::
:::::Have a small power transformer salvaged from an old non-working radio. The transformer is good, provides about 250VCT, 5V, 6.3V. Would like to use it in a power supply application for a regenerative receiver. The problem is that the lead insulation is very brittle and flaking off.
:::::
:::::The transformer is a horizontal, in-chassis mount style. I removed the end bells and see that the leads internally seem to be OK but are too short to try and splice new leads to them. These short lengths are brittle and may also start flaking off when I disturb them.
:::::
:::::Is it possible to attach new leads directly to the coils and eliminate the original short lead lengths or is this too difficult a task? Are the coils, where the original leads are attached, easily accessible so that new leads can be attached?
:::::
:::::Looking for some help with this before starting to "dig" into it only to realize that it isn't very practical (or very safe) to try. On the other hand, a new transformer from AES is quite expensive.
:::::
:::::Thanks in advance, Noel
:::::
::::
::::










Sir Noel. . . .


Initially, let me thank the Right Honorable and Esteemed Rich . . . . Esq. for those two informative links.


Now the first one FULLY covered the aspects of the moisture extraction and potting of a T-former.
With the second article going back to the 20-30's time frame and the remaking/ rewinding of "crude "
I bar transformers.


ASIDE:


(Matter of fact I have used that I bar core design. But, with my being my from a rock hard scrabble small
Texas town. (population minus 12) I referenced to the Boy Experimenter magazine and saw that they
were using bound together iron wires.


Now MY iron wires turned out to be "baling wire" and I had strung out ~ a hundred feet of it between a mulberry tree trunk and the Model A Ford's bumper.


Mom then backed up the car for me about a foot, until that stretched wire was coming in tune to "E- Sharp".


That operation had left the wire being perfectly straight and flat for me to further cut down into 3 inch lengths to be bound together with sewing thread to make an I bar core.


It then received an overall shellac conformal coating.


END:


ASIDE 2 . . . . on WWW.chimeralabs.com which is the basic URL root supply routing source that is hosting that transformer potting article by Dennis Boyle:


Now, Dennis was indeed a sane person and its tech content depicted himself as such, but additionally, now refer to an adjunct article on some "audio cables" and THOSE full blown WACKO's . . . . and that's heav-e e e e on the W_A_C_K_O_'S.


I'd just LOVE to do a double blind aural laboratory acoustical performance test with any one of them !

Reference:





> > > . . . . " Breaking in" audio cables . . . . . > < < <





END:




Now . . . . . in gettin' back to 'bidness at hand !

No where in those articles, do I see the further SPECIFIC treatment of the aspect of handling terminal / lead reworking.


In my boxes of pulled power transformers, I am always finding short clipped leads that merely leave one or two inch stubs.


Now, I am one HEAVY recycler of Power T-formers . . . becuz they wuz being total FREEBIES to me!


Just about all are using braided cotton sheath for the overcovering . . . . from being in the product developmental time frame PRIOR to the use of a modern total single polyvinyl outer insulation.


BUT their fallacy is REALLY just below, as the internal plastic or rubber insulation covering of the lead wire proper.


Put a pair of dikes or simple "scissor" wire stripper tool to those lead ends and that insulation just crumbles.


What I do is to use Crystal Clear, ( made by Krylon), or Elsie the Cow, and spray an amount into its cap, so that a artistes brush can then be used for its application.


(My earlier explorations and trials had me initially using thinned clear airplane dope, or thinned clear fingernail polish.


After spraying a coat of Crystal Clear upon a sheet of paper and flexing it . . . .even into a complete fold . . . and seeing no fracturing of the applied coating or ANY flaking off, I now use it exclusively. And it REALLY soaks in.

It is thin enough to soak into the wire stubs insulative covering(s),and even MORESO if you use a blow driers HEAT to warm them up. Put on multiple coatings until it passes the test of beng able to strip a wires end back ~ 1/4 inch.


Then you flux and tin it and solder tack on your desired replacement wire length.


What I then like to use over that joint, is an insulative coating of some of the Puffy Paint that one squeeze applies with its end applicator hole, to then dry or even multicoat.


Its actually being liquid vinyl . . . . . that I gets at my nearby "Wally Woild " ( or a crafts / hobby shop ) as:






I have built up a complete color coded set of them.



When happy with that initial, form fitting conformal insulative covering, then additionally cover up with a short length or gradiated telescoped sets of heat shrink tubing.


The other mounting terminal aspect that I sometimes run into, is there being a cardboard / stiff fishpaper square mounted on the flat side of the transformer , that incorporates individual small metal clasping tabs that are wrapping around the centers of the incoming lead wires.


They surround and hold them in place upon the insulator sheet, while the actual copper winding wires come up and wrap around the bared ends of the lead wires.


This construction type should present no problem to be able to replace wires on.




73's de Edd




I just now realized that I have used up all of my sick days, so I'm calling in dead.








:
:
:
:
:
:

1/18/2013 9:06:00 AMLewis
:
:
:Now Dennis was indeed a sane person and its tech content depicted himself as such, but additionally refer to an adjunct article on some "audio cables" and those FULL BLOWN WACKO's . . . . and that's heav-e e e e on the W_A_C_K_O_'S.
:
:
:I'd just LOVE to do a double blind aural labaratory acoustical performance test with any one of them !
:
:
:
:Reference:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:> > > . . . . "Breaking in" audio cables . . . . . >
: < < <
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:END:
:
:
:
:

1/18/2013 9:08:28 AMLewis
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EDD!!!
I think I have just figgered out what is going on with the Boeing 787....They are shipping those things to customers before the wiring is broken in properly. Notify the FAA quickly!!!
Lewis
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1/18/2013 11:11:32 AMClifton
Lewis,

Betcha all this break-in stuff would probably grow some pretty big roses...

Clifton

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:::Now Dennis was indeed a sane person and its tech content depicted himself as such, but additionally refer to an adjunct article on some "audio cables" and those FULL BLOWN WACKO's . . . . and that's heav-e e e e on the W_A_C_K_O_'S.
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:EDD!!!
:I think I have just figgered out what is going on with the Boeing 787....They are shipping those things to customers before the wiring is broken in properly. Notify the FAA quickly!!!
:Lewis
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