tv has picture that has the horizontal shift to the right every 1 second on the menu screen and I think picture too. Main issue is the relay when turned on buzzes loudly. Im going to guess bad relay, or power to it. Maybe a possable down the line short causing power to relay to dip when relay is engaged.
Would like schematic, maybe that woul help me see whats going on. I got this tv for like 30 bucks so I dont mind spending a little bit if its worth it. Son was playing xbox on it and the buzzing returned. Usually it went away after a few minutes of on time. Makes me wonder if a cap is shorting out.

:tv has picture that has the horizontal shift to the right every 1 second on the menu screen and I think picture too. Main issue is the relay when turned on buzzes loudly. Im going to guess bad relay, or power to it. Maybe a possable down the line short causing power to relay to dip when relay is engaged.
:Would like schematic, maybe that woul help me see whats going on. I got this tv for like 30 bucks so I dont mind spending a little bit if its worth it. Son was playing xbox on it and the buzzing returned. Usually it went away after a few minutes of on time. Makes me wonder if a cap is shorting out. Picture went away after the buzzing returned. Not sure where to get a schematic anymore. I havnt messed with any of my radios in years.
:

HI SEAN:

I DO NOT HAVE THE SCHEMATIC SO I COULD NOT LOOK AT THAT CIRCUIT.

FROM PAST EXPERIENCE FIRST I WOULD RESOLDER THE RELAY CONNECTIONS.THE SET STARTS AND PLAYS SO THIS IS NOT A START RELAY.SO IS THE DEGAUSING RELAY.THERE IS ALSO A THERMISTOR CONNECTED TO THE RELAY AND THAT ALSO HAS TO BE RESOLDERED.IF YOU STILL HAVE THE PROBLEM THE THERMISTOR MAY HAVE AN INTERMITTENT CONNECTION ON ITS SIDE.THIS CIRCUIT CAN CAUSE THE SHIT MOMENTARALY.THE RELAY CONTACTS MAY ALSO BE PITTED.I USUALLY REMOVE IT FROM THE BOARD AND REMOVE THE COVER.THEN CLEAN THE CONTACTS WITH A SMALL IGNITION POINT FILE.

WALTER-W2WIQ

:tv has picture that has the horizontal shift to the right every 1 second on the menu screen and I think picture too. Main issue is the relay when turned on buzzes loudly. Im going to guess bad relay, or power to it. Maybe a possable down the line short causing power to relay to dip when relay is engaged.
:Would like schematic, maybe that woul help me see whats going on. I got this tv for like 30 bucks so I dont mind spending a little bit if its worth it. Son was playing xbox on it and the buzzing returned. Usually it went away after a few minutes of on time. Makes me wonder if a cap is shorting out.
:

:HI SEAN:
:
:I DO NOT HAVE THE SCHEMATIC SO I COULD NOT LOOK AT THAT CIRCUIT.
:
:FROM PAST EXPERIENCE FIRST I WOULD RESOLDER THE RELAY CONNECTIONS.THE SET STARTS AND PLAYS SO THIS IS NOT A START RELAY.SO IS THE DEGAUSING RELAY.THERE IS ALSO A THERMISTOR CONNECTED TO THE RELAY AND THAT ALSO HAS TO BE RESOLDERED.IF YOU STILL HAVE THE PROBLEM THE THERMISTOR MAY HAVE AN INTERMITTENT CONNECTION ON ITS SIDE.THIS CIRCUIT CAN CAUSE THE SHIT MOMENTARALY.THE RELAY CONTACTS MAY ALSO BE PITTED.I USUALLY REMOVE IT FROM THE BOARD AND REMOVE THE COVER.THEN CLEAN THE CONTACTS WITH A SMALL IGNITION POINT FILE.
:
:WALTER-W2WIQ
:
:
:
:
::tv has picture that has the horizontal shift to the right every 1 second on the menu screen and I think picture too. Main issue is the relay when turned on buzzes loudly. Im going to guess bad relay, or power to it. Maybe a possable down the line short causing power to relay to dip when relay is engaged.
::Would like schematic, maybe that woul help me see whats going on. I got this tv for like 30 bucks so I dont mind spending a little bit if its worth it. Son was playing xbox on it and the buzzing returned. Usually it went away after a few minutes of on time. Makes me wonder if a cap is shorting out.
the thermistor is inside the relay, or is it a separate component on the board? I was just going to button it all up till I got a schematic but Im gonna go try a resolder. I have sandpaper that I could use for the relay.
::
:
:

::HI SEAN:
::
::I DO NOT HAVE THE SCHEMATIC SO I COULD NOT LOOK AT THAT CIRCUIT.
::
::FROM PAST EXPERIENCE FIRST I WOULD RESOLDER THE RELAY CONNECTIONS.THE SET STARTS AND PLAYS SO THIS IS NOT A START RELAY.SO IS THE DEGAUSING RELAY.THERE IS ALSO A THERMISTOR CONNECTED TO THE RELAY AND THAT ALSO HAS TO BE RESOLDERED.IF YOU STILL HAVE THE PROBLEM THE THERMISTOR MAY HAVE AN INTERMITTENT CONNECTION ON ITS SIDE.THIS CIRCUIT CAN CAUSE THE SHIT MOMENTARALY.THE RELAY CONTACTS MAY ALSO BE PITTED.I USUALLY REMOVE IT FROM THE BOARD AND REMOVE THE COVER.THEN CLEAN THE CONTACTS WITH A SMALL IGNITION POINT FILE.
::
::WALTER-W2WIQ
::
::
::
::
:::tv has picture that has the horizontal shift to the right every 1 second on the menu screen and I think picture too. Main issue is the relay when turned on buzzes loudly. Im going to guess bad relay, or power to it. Maybe a possable down the line short causing power to relay to dip when relay is engaged.
:::Would like schematic, maybe that woul help me see whats going on. I got this tv for like 30 bucks so I dont mind spending a little bit if its worth it. Son was playing xbox on it and the buzzing returned. Usually it went away after a few minutes of on time. Makes me wonder if a cap is shorting out.
:the thermistor is inside the relay, or is it a separate component on the board? I was just going to button it all up till I got a schematic but Im gonna go try a resolder. I have sandpaper that I could use for the relay.
resoldered relay. Relay is triggered by 12 volts as seen on side of relay. Its single pole single throw. Heck, just for fun I soldered a bunch of points everywhere on the board. Relay is blue if that helps. Only way I see to even check if relay cover comes off is to unsolder it from the board, but I dont see any way to get cover off looking at it unless cover is pryed up over tab releases on bottom of it. When this relay is going whacky with loud buzzing/growling ect, it does affect picture.
:::
::
::
:
:

:::HI SEAN:
:::
:::I DO NOT HAVE THE SCHEMATIC SO I COULD NOT LOOK AT THAT CIRCUIT.
:::
:::FROM PAST EXPERIENCE FIRST I WOULD RESOLDER THE RELAY CONNECTIONS.THE SET STARTS AND PLAYS SO THIS IS NOT A START RELAY.SO IS THE DEGAUSING RELAY.THERE IS ALSO A THERMISTOR CONNECTED TO THE RELAY AND THAT ALSO HAS TO BE RESOLDERED.IF YOU STILL HAVE THE PROBLEM THE THERMISTOR MAY HAVE AN INTERMITTENT CONNECTION ON ITS SIDE.THIS CIRCUIT CAN CAUSE THE SHIT MOMENTARALY.THE RELAY CONTACTS MAY ALSO BE PITTED.I USUALLY REMOVE IT FROM THE BOARD AND REMOVE THE COVER.THEN CLEAN THE CONTACTS WITH A SMALL IGNITION POINT FILE.
:::
:::WALTER-W2WIQ
:::
:::
:::
:::
::::tv has picture that has the horizontal shift to the right every 1 second on the menu screen and I think picture too. Main issue is the relay when turned on buzzes loudly. Im going to guess bad relay, or power to it. Maybe a possable down the line short causing power to relay to dip when relay is engaged.
::::Would like schematic, maybe that woul help me see whats going on. I got this tv for like 30 bucks so I dont mind spending a little bit if its worth it. Son was playing xbox on it and the buzzing returned. Usually it went away after a few minutes of on time. Makes me wonder if a cap is shorting out.
::the thermistor is inside the relay, or is it a separate component on the board? I was just going to button it all up till I got a schematic but Im gonna go try a resolder. I have sandpaper that I could use for the relay.
: resoldered relay. Relay is triggered by 12 volts as seen on side of relay. Its single pole single throw. Heck, just for fun I soldered a bunch of points everywhere on the board. Relay is blue if that helps. Only way I see to even check if relay cover comes off is to unsolder it from the board, but I dont see any way to get cover off looking at it unless cover is pryed up over tab releases on bottom of it. When this relay is going whacky with loud buzzing/growling ect, it does affect picture.
Well, I vacuumed it all out, beat on the relay some more. Funny, holding a magnet close to it would make it quit buzzing. I put it back together, turned it on, and the buzzing only lasts for a few seconds now. Wondering if the years of non use just messed things up a bit. Tv is now connected to xbox via the converter box that converts rca connector signals into coax for channel 3 or 4. Sitting there running so far. I dont know if this relay is supposed to be constantly on or not. If its for the degausing circuit then shouldnt that shut off after a few seconds? Picture messup could have been the converter box as the rca video connection was dirty. Wiggling it got picture to mess up so I shot some radio shack tv tuner cleaner in the connector. Should let kid test it out using xbox but hes busted for not doing chores, lol
::::
:::
:::
::
::
:
:

::::HI SEAN:
::::
::::I DO NOT HAVE THE SCHEMATIC SO I COULD NOT LOOK AT THAT CIRCUIT.
::::
::::FROM PAST EXPERIENCE FIRST I WOULD RESOLDER THE RELAY CONNECTIONS.THE SET STARTS AND PLAYS SO THIS IS NOT A START RELAY.SO IS THE DEGAUSING RELAY.THERE IS ALSO A THERMISTOR CONNECTED TO THE RELAY AND THAT ALSO HAS TO BE RESOLDERED.IF YOU STILL HAVE THE PROBLEM THE THERMISTOR MAY HAVE AN INTERMITTENT CONNECTION ON ITS SIDE.THIS CIRCUIT CAN CAUSE THE SHIT MOMENTARALY.THE RELAY CONTACTS MAY ALSO BE PITTED.I USUALLY REMOVE IT FROM THE BOARD AND REMOVE THE COVER.THEN CLEAN THE CONTACTS WITH A SMALL IGNITION POINT FILE.
::::
::::WALTER-W2WIQ
::::
::::
::::
::::
:::::tv has picture that has the horizontal shift to the right every 1 second on the menu screen and I think picture too. Main issue is the relay when turned on buzzes loudly. Im going to guess bad relay, or power to it. Maybe a possable down the line short causing power to relay to dip when relay is engaged.
:::::Would like schematic, maybe that woul help me see whats going on. I got this tv for like 30 bucks so I dont mind spending a little bit if its worth it. Son was playing xbox on it and the buzzing returned. Usually it went away after a few minutes of on time. Makes me wonder if a cap is shorting out.
:::the thermistor is inside the relay, or is it a separate component on the board? I was just going to button it all up till I got a schematic but Im gonna go try a resolder. I have sandpaper that I could use for the relay.
:: resoldered relay. Relay is triggered by 12 volts as seen on side of relay. Its single pole single throw. Heck, just for fun I soldered a bunch of points everywhere on the board. Relay is blue if that helps. Only way I see to even check if relay cover comes off is to unsolder it from the board, but I dont see any way to get cover off looking at it unless cover is pryed up over tab releases on bottom of it. When this relay is going whacky with loud buzzing/growling ect, it does affect picture.
:Well, I vacuumed it all out, beat on the relay some more. Funny, holding a magnet close to it would make it quit buzzing. I put it back together, turned it on, and the buzzing only lasts for a few seconds now. Wondering if the years of non use just messed things up a bit. Tv is now connected to xbox via the converter box that converts rca connector signals into coax for channel 3 or 4. Sitting there running so far. I dont know if this relay is supposed to be constantly on or not. If its for the degausing circuit then shouldnt that shut off after a few seconds? Picture messup could have been the converter box as the rca video connection was dirty. Wiggling it got picture to mess up so I shot some radio shack tv tuner cleaner in the connector. Should let kid test it out using xbox but hes busted for not doing chores, lol
:::::I found a post on fix ya that sayd sanyo ds25390 about cap c622 that controls the relay. If this cap goes bad, the relay buzzes. Just need to figure out c622s value
:::
::::
:::
:::
::
::
:
:

:::::HI SEAN:
:::::
:::::I DO NOT HAVE THE SCHEMATIC SO I COULD NOT LOOK AT THAT CIRCUIT.
:::::
:::::FROM PAST EXPERIENCE FIRST I WOULD RESOLDER THE RELAY CONNECTIONS.THE SET STARTS AND PLAYS SO THIS IS NOT A START RELAY.SO IS THE DEGAUSING RELAY.THERE IS ALSO A THERMISTOR CONNECTED TO THE RELAY AND THAT ALSO HAS TO BE RESOLDERED.IF YOU STILL HAVE THE PROBLEM THE THERMISTOR MAY HAVE AN INTERMITTENT CONNECTION ON ITS SIDE.THIS CIRCUIT CAN CAUSE THE SHIT MOMENTARALY.THE RELAY CONTACTS MAY ALSO BE PITTED.I USUALLY REMOVE IT FROM THE BOARD AND REMOVE THE COVER.THEN CLEAN THE CONTACTS WITH A SMALL IGNITION POINT FILE.
:::::
:::::WALTER-W2WIQ
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
::::::tv has picture that has the horizontal shift to the right every 1 second on the menu screen and I think picture too. Main issue is the relay when turned on buzzes loudly. Im going to guess bad relay, or power to it. Maybe a possable down the line short causing power to relay to dip when relay is engaged.
::::::Would like schematic, maybe that woul help me see whats going on. I got this tv for like 30 bucks so I dont mind spending a little bit if its worth it. Son was playing xbox on it and the buzzing returned. Usually it went away after a few minutes of on time. Makes me wonder if a cap is shorting out.
::::the thermistor is inside the relay, or is it a separate component on the board? I was just going to button it all up till I got a schematic but Im gonna go try a resolder. I have sandpaper that I could use for the relay.
::: resoldered relay. Relay is triggered by 12 volts as seen on side of relay. Its single pole single throw. Heck, just for fun I soldered a bunch of points everywhere on the board. Relay is blue if that helps. Only way I see to even check if relay cover comes off is to unsolder it from the board, but I dont see any way to get cover off looking at it unless cover is pryed up over tab releases on bottom of it. When this relay is going whacky with loud buzzing/growling ect, it does affect picture.
::Well, I vacuumed it all out, beat on the relay some more. Funny, holding a magnet close to it would make it quit buzzing. I put it back together, turned it on, and the buzzing only lasts for a few seconds now. Wondering if the years of non use just messed things up a bit. Tv is now connected to xbox via the converter box that converts rca connector signals into coax for channel 3 or 4. Sitting there running so far. I dont know if this relay is supposed to be constantly on or not. If its for the degausing circuit then shouldnt that shut off after a few seconds? Picture messup could have been the converter box as the rca video connection was dirty. Wiggling it got picture to mess up so I shot some radio shack tv tuner cleaner in the connector. Should let kid test it out using xbox but hes busted for not doing chores, lol
::::::I found a post on fix ya that sayd sanyo ds25390 about cap c622 that controls the relay. If this cap goes bad, the relay buzzes. Just need to figure out c622s value

replaced c622 470uf 25volts with 1000 uf 35 volts. All is good now. That even seemed to help with the green menu channel picture numbers wobbleing from side to side. 30 dollar tv still running strong now.
::::
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::::
::::
:::
:::
::
::
:
:

HI SEAN

THAT WAS GOING TO BE MY NEXT SUGGESTION,CHANGE THAT CAP.A SET THAT OLD WILL START TO HAVE SOME OF THEM GO.
THE RELAY IS ON ALL THE TIME.THE COVER JUST SLIPS OVER THE SIDEDES ABOUT A 1/4" AND I ALWAYS HAD TO USE A EXACTO KNIFE AROUND THE SIDES TO GENTLY UNSTICK THEM.A FINE EMERY CLOTH IS PREFERRED OVER SANDPAPER.MOST OF THE TIME THE PROBLEMS WERE WITH COLD SOLDER CONNECTIONS.THAT WAS ALWAYS OUR FIRST GO-TO.THE THERMISTOR MEASURE VERY LOW RESISTANCE WHEN COLD AND WHEN THE CURRENT IS FIRST APPLIED WITHIN A SECOND IT IMMEDIATELY RISES TO A VERY HIGH VALUE.

IT WOULD BE GREAT IF YOU COULD FIND THE SERVICE MANUAL FOR FUTURE USE BUT THE ORIGINAL MAY COST YOU AS MUCH AS YOU PAID FOR THE SET.

HAPPY NEW YEAR.

WALTER-W2WIQ

::::::HI SEAN:
::::::
::::::I DO NOT HAVE THE SCHEMATIC SO I COULD NOT LOOK AT THAT CIRCUIT.
::::::
::::::FROM PAST EXPERIENCE FIRST I WOULD RESOLDER THE RELAY CONNECTIONS.THE SET STARTS AND PLAYS SO THIS IS NOT A START RELAY.SO IS THE DEGAUSING RELAY.THERE IS ALSO A THERMISTOR CONNECTED TO THE RELAY AND THAT ALSO HAS TO BE RESOLDERED.IF YOU STILL HAVE THE PROBLEM THE THERMISTOR MAY HAVE AN INTERMITTENT CONNECTION ON ITS SIDE.THIS CIRCUIT CAN CAUSE THE SHIT MOMENTARALY.THE RELAY CONTACTS MAY ALSO BE PITTED.I USUALLY REMOVE IT FROM THE BOARD AND REMOVE THE COVER.THEN CLEAN THE CONTACTS WITH A SMALL IGNITION POINT FILE.
::::::
::::::WALTER-W2WIQ
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
:::::::tv has picture that has the horizontal shift to the right every 1 second on the menu screen and I think picture too. Main issue is the relay when turned on buzzes loudly. Im going to guess bad relay, or power to it. Maybe a possable down the line short causing power to relay to dip when relay is engaged.
:::::::Would like schematic, maybe that woul help me see whats going on. I got this tv for like 30 bucks so I dont mind spending a little bit if its worth it. Son was playing xbox on it and the buzzing returned. Usually it went away after a few minutes of on time. Makes me wonder if a cap is shorting out.
:::::the thermistor is inside the relay, or is it a separate component on the board? I was just going to button it all up till I got a schematic but Im gonna go try a resolder. I have sandpaper that I could use for the relay.
:::: resoldered relay. Relay is triggered by 12 volts as seen on side of relay. Its single pole single throw. Heck, just for fun I soldered a bunch of points everywhere on the board. Relay is blue if that helps. Only way I see to even check if relay cover comes off is to unsolder it from the board, but I dont see any way to get cover off looking at it unless cover is pryed up over tab releases on bottom of it. When this relay is going whacky with loud buzzing/growling ect, it does affect picture.
:::Well, I vacuumed it all out, beat on the relay some more. Funny, holding a magnet close to it would make it quit buzzing. I put it back together, turned it on, and the buzzing only lasts for a few seconds now. Wondering if the years of non use just messed things up a bit. Tv is now connected to xbox via the converter box that converts rca connector signals into coax for channel 3 or 4. Sitting there running so far. I dont know if this relay is supposed to be constantly on or not. If its for the degausing circuit then shouldnt that shut off after a few seconds? Picture messup could have been the converter box as the rca video connection was dirty. Wiggling it got picture to mess up so I shot some radio shack tv tuner cleaner in the connector. Should let kid test it out using xbox but hes busted for not doing chores, lol
:::::::I found a post on fix ya that sayd sanyo ds25390 about cap c622 that controls the relay. If this cap goes bad, the relay buzzes. Just need to figure out c622s value
:
:replaced c622 470uf 25volts with 1000 uf 35 volts. All is good now. That even seemed to help with the green menu channel picture numbers wobbleing from side to side. 30 dollar tv still running strong now.
:::::
::::::
:::::
:::::
::::
::::
:::
:::
::
::
:
:

:HI SEAN
:
:THAT WAS GOING TO BE MY NEXT SUGGESTION,CHANGE THAT CAP.A SET THAT OLD WILL START TO HAVE SOME OF THEM GO.
:THE RELAY IS ON ALL THE TIME.THE COVER JUST SLIPS OVER THE SIDEDES ABOUT A 1/4" AND I ALWAYS HAD TO USE A EXACTO KNIFE AROUND THE SIDES TO GENTLY UNSTICK THEM.A FINE EMERY CLOTH IS PREFERRED OVER SANDPAPER.MOST OF THE TIME THE PROBLEMS WERE WITH COLD SOLDER CONNECTIONS.THAT WAS ALWAYS OUR FIRST GO-TO.THE THERMISTOR MEASURE VERY LOW RESISTANCE WHEN COLD AND WHEN THE CURRENT IS FIRST APPLIED WITHIN A SECOND IT IMMEDIATELY RISES TO A VERY HIGH VALUE.
:
:IT WOULD BE GREAT IF YOU COULD FIND THE SERVICE MANUAL FOR FUTURE USE BUT THE ORIGINAL MAY COST YOU AS MUCH AS YOU PAID FOR THE SET.
:
:HAPPY NEW YEAR.
:
:WALTER-W2WIQ
:
:
:::::::HI SEAN:
:::::::
:::::::I DO NOT HAVE THE SCHEMATIC SO I COULD NOT LOOK AT THAT CIRCUIT.
:::::::
:::::::FROM PAST EXPERIENCE FIRST I WOULD RESOLDER THE RELAY CONNECTIONS.THE SET STARTS AND PLAYS SO THIS IS NOT A START RELAY.SO IS THE DEGAUSING RELAY.THERE IS ALSO A THERMISTOR CONNECTED TO THE RELAY AND THAT ALSO HAS TO BE RESOLDERED.IF YOU STILL HAVE THE PROBLEM THE THERMISTOR MAY HAVE AN INTERMITTENT CONNECTION ON ITS SIDE.THIS CIRCUIT CAN CAUSE THE SHIT MOMENTARALY.THE RELAY CONTACTS MAY ALSO BE PITTED.I USUALLY REMOVE IT FROM THE BOARD AND REMOVE THE COVER.THEN CLEAN THE CONTACTS WITH A SMALL IGNITION POINT FILE.
:::::::
:::::::WALTER-W2WIQ
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
::::::::tv has picture that has the horizontal shift to the right every 1 second on the menu screen and I think picture too. Main issue is the relay when turned on buzzes loudly. Im going to guess bad relay, or power to it. Maybe a possable down the line short causing power to relay to dip when relay is engaged.
::::::::Would like schematic, maybe that woul help me see whats going on. I got this tv for like 30 bucks so I dont mind spending a little bit if its worth it. Son was playing xbox on it and the buzzing returned. Usually it went away after a few minutes of on time. Makes me wonder if a cap is shorting out.
::::::the thermistor is inside the relay, or is it a separate component on the board? I was just going to button it all up till I got a schematic but Im gonna go try a resolder. I have sandpaper that I could use for the relay.
::::: resoldered relay. Relay is triggered by 12 volts as seen on side of relay. Its single pole single throw. Heck, just for fun I soldered a bunch of points everywhere on the board. Relay is blue if that helps. Only way I see to even check if relay cover comes off is to unsolder it from the board, but I dont see any way to get cover off looking at it unless cover is pryed up over tab releases on bottom of it. When this relay is going whacky with loud buzzing/growling ect, it does affect picture.
::::Well, I vacuumed it all out, beat on the relay some more. Funny, holding a magnet close to it would make it quit buzzing. I put it back together, turned it on, and the buzzing only lasts for a few seconds now. Wondering if the years of non use just messed things up a bit. Tv is now connected to xbox via the converter box that converts rca connector signals into coax for channel 3 or 4. Sitting there running so far. I dont know if this relay is supposed to be constantly on or not. If its for the degausing circuit then shouldnt that shut off after a few seconds? Picture messup could have been the converter box as the rca video connection was dirty. Wiggling it got picture to mess up so I shot some radio shack tv tuner cleaner in the connector. Should let kid test it out using xbox but hes busted for not doing chores, lol
::::::::I found a post on fix ya that sayd sanyo ds25390 about cap c622 that controls the relay. If this cap goes bad, the relay buzzes. Just need to figure out c622s value
::
::replaced c622 470uf 25volts with 1000 uf 35 volts. All is good now. That even seemed to help with the green menu channel picture numbers wobbleing from side to side. 30 dollar tv still running strong now.

Sir Sean . . . . I caught your post at the beginning, but later went out in the sticks to the "mule barn" , where in addition, I made it my last task to be sure to pull the SAMUELS tech info for that problem set of yours. I made a selective mark up of the relevant area . . . . . its power supply and . . . now its referencing can now fully technically fill you up on " Wha' HOPPENED ? " At the left side AC input trace my TURQOISE ARROW path down thru TWO series voltage dropping resistors (dividing and spreading out the generated heat of the leads to the PCB lands) Then there's the D601 half wave rectifier diode that gets your constant on 20V supply and for activating the RL601 power relay. Since its getting its ground path thru the 5 v constant on supply and some series resistance, it ends up with ~12VDC across the relay. IF an IC 810 u.P. .signal to Q621 and 623 says its OK to turn on. The BLACK-YELLOW mark up of that power supply portion is your problem electrolytic cap, its capacitance is probably down to ~10 ufd or less to have the relay chattering with its minimal current pull. Your opting for the 1000 ufd unit should serve you well, since the original must have been some ratty quality, as this set is using a 60~ line derived LINEAR supply design. Its very common in a SWITCH MODE SUPPLY where the main input capacitor is getting hammered by the hundreds of KHZ of a square wave . As capacitance drops the cap runs hotter and hotter and progressively vaporizes the damp electrolyte. At some point of the internal pressure built up, conditions are then ripe for the progressive oveheating and pressure to either bulge and split open a pressure relief slit on top with a strong PSSSSSSSSSST. Or, if a very fast and high pressure is generated, the neoprene bottom seal/plug can pop out and create a Big BAAAAANG (Theory). If one was surmising a degauss relay presence, on this smaller set there is none. Just the FUCSIA marked up area where the degaussing coil is fed by a PTC thermistor. Degauss relay utilization is typically used on the large 36-37-40 inch tubed sets where the BIG deg coils are typically wound with a hefty 18 ga wire. Now, on your other perceived problem, of a slight lateral shift of the pic ? That power supply portion that you were working with, feeds on down to create the sets 3 other +5Vdc supplies, so they could have been geing a bit corrupted also. Confirm that the 5Vdc supply electrolytics are fine also . . . they are marked up as BLUE SQUARES. Other wise, look at the derivation of the main raw B+ of the set from the FWB rectifiers set of D602-3-4-and 5. Then follow my RED SQUARE path to the STR30130 where it drops the ~168Vdc down to a regulated 130Vdc B+ for the set. It also is a linear device, and initially depends upon the C607 4.7 ufd cap to bypass and clean up its initial pre regulation circuitry, There is also the main filter of C483 at the output. Both are marked up with ORANGE SQUARES. Be sure that they are good, as a deficiency of them can cause the set to shift hoz position slightly, under high brite scenes when the kine is pulling high beam current. If transitioning rapidly between light to dark scenes , one can see the whole overall pic size changing. When the condition of degradation of regulation has progressed too far, the whole pic can actually pulsate in size. The resultant overheating of IC 601 can eventually cause it to fail, with its common failure mode , the popping of an internal series pass transistors emitter lead and the loss of the shunted B+ that the IC provides. Look at the direct feed of raw B+ via the shunted series of R608-9-11 and then the additional CONTROLLED shunting of B+ across them by IC 601. That shunting technique takes some power dissipation off from having to be carried by IC 601, with it then just providing the fine degree regulation, via its degree of conduction. Thassiittt . . . . . 73's de Edd Build something that even a fool can use, and only a fool will want to use it.

SANYO SCHEMATIC. . . . .