I performed a dim bulb test on a mod.44 Philco to check the power transformer with all tubes removed and using a 20w. bulb in the tester it glowed dimly. I then put in a 100w. bulb and the #80 rectifier tube. The 100w. lit up dimly and the rectifier tube had a dim glow. So I plugged the set into outlet all tubes installed,after a minute the #80 rectifier tube glowed very bright with a purple tinge that disapated in about 30 sec. but the tube was very hot I also noticed that all tubes were lit but the #75 2nd det.1st af.tube. Any ideas on where to check next would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Sounds like you are shorting out the power supply by insertion of the tubes somehow.The #80 is drawing heavy current.

Check:

1. That the proper # tubes are in the proper sockets

2. That the #75 tests good on a tester. It could have a short in it.

I always test all tubes and reinstall them before doing any work on a chassis.

Lou

: I performed a dim bulb test on a mod.44 Philco to check the power transformer with all tubes removed and using a 20w. bulb in the tester it glowed dimly. I then put in a 100w. bulb and the #80 rectifier tube. The 100w. lit up dimly and the rectifier tube had a dim glow. So I plugged the set into outlet all tubes installed,after a minute the #80 rectifier tube glowed very bright with a purple tinge that disapated in about 30 sec. but the tube was very hot I also noticed that all tubes were lit but the #75 2nd det.1st af.tube. Any ideas on where to check next would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
:

:Sounds like you are shorting out the power supply by insertion of the tubes somehow.The #80 is drawing heavy current.
:
:Check:
:
:1. That the proper # tubes are in the proper sockets
:
:2. That the #75 tests good on a tester. It could have a short in it.
:
:I always test all tubes and reinstall them before doing any work on a chassis.
:
:Lou
:
:: I performed a dim bulb test on a mod.44 Philco to check the power transformer with all tubes removed and using a 20w. bulb in the tester it glowed dimly. I then put in a 100w. bulb and the #80 rectifier tube. The 100w. lit up dimly and the rectifier tube had a dim glow. So I plugged the set into outlet all tubes installed,after a minute the #80 rectifier tube glowed very bright with a purple tinge that disapated in about 30 sec. but the tube was very hot I also noticed that all tubes were lit but the #75 2nd det.1st af.tube. Any ideas on where to check next would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
::
:
:

::Sounds like you are shorting out the power supply by insertion of the tubes somehow.The #80 is drawing heavy current.
::
::Check:
::
::1. That the proper # tubes are in the proper sockets
::
::2. That the #75 tests good on a tester. It could have a short in it.
::
::I always test all tubes and reinstall them before doing any work on a chassis.
::
::Lou
::
::: I performed a dim bulb test on a mod.44 Philco to check the power transformer with all tubes removed and using a 20w. bulb in the tester it glowed dimly. I then put in a 100w. bulb and the #80 rectifier tube. The 100w. lit up dimly and the rectifier tube had a dim glow. So I plugged the set into outlet all tubes installed,after a minute the #80 rectifier tube glowed very bright with a purple tinge that disapated in about 30 sec. but the tube was very hot I also noticed that all tubes were lit but the #75 2nd det.1st af.tube. Any ideas on where to check next would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
:::
::
::I double checked tube location,it was correct. I will have to buy a new 75tube. I'am a newbie at this and have spent the last month reading many of the web sites from the links on this site. I copied a schematic of the radio and have been studying every part. I plan to buy some test equipment soon as I only have a fluke multimeter.Thanks for the advice. I'am sure I will be needing more in the future.
:
:

:Sounds like you are shorting out the power supply by insertion of the tubes somehow.The #80 is drawing heavy current.
:
:Check:
:
:1. That the proper # tubes are in the proper sockets
:
:2. That the #75 tests good on a tester. It could have a short in it.
:
:I always test all tubes and reinstall them before doing any work on a chassis.
:
:Lou

It looks like, indeed, that the 80 and the rest of the "B" supply is ok with the other tubes removed. I suggest you use the 100 Watt bulb while, starting with just the 80 in place, insert one tube at a time until the lamp gets bright. That would be a good starting place.
Lewis.

:
:: I performed a dim bulb test on a mod.44 Philco to check the power transformer with all tubes removed and using a 20w. bulb in the tester it glowed dimly. I then put in a 100w. bulb and the #80 rectifier tube. The 100w. lit up dimly and the rectifier tube had a dim glow. So I plugged the set into outlet all tubes installed,after a minute the #80 rectifier tube glowed very bright with a purple tinge that disapated in about 30 sec. but the tube was very hot I also noticed that all tubes were lit but the #75 2nd det.1st af.tube. Any ideas on where to check next would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
::
:
:

::Sounds like you are shorting out the power supply by insertion of the tubes somehow.The #80 is drawing heavy current.
::
::Check:
::
::1. That the proper # tubes are in the proper sockets
::
::2. That the #75 tests good on a tester. It could have a short in it.
::
::I always test all tubes and reinstall them before doing any work on a chassis.
::
::Lou
:
:
:
:
:
:It looks like, indeed, that the 80 and the rest of the "B" supply is ok with the other tubes removed. I suggest you use the 100 Watt bulb while, starting with just the 80 in place, insert one tube at a time until the lamp gets bright. That would be a good starting place.
:Lewis.
:
:
:Thanks Lewis I'll give that a try.
:
::
::: I performed a dim bulb test on a mod.44 Philco to check the power transformer with all tubes removed and using a 20w. bulb in the tester it glowed dimly. I then put in a 100w. bulb and the #80 rectifier tube. The 100w. lit up dimly and the rectifier tube had a dim glow. So I plugged the set into outlet all tubes installed,after a minute the #80 rectifier tube glowed very bright with a purple tinge that disapated in about 30 sec. but the tube was very hot I also noticed that all tubes were lit but the #75 2nd det.1st af.tube. Any ideas on where to check next would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
:::
::
::
:
:

::Sounds like you are shorting out the power supply by insertion of the tubes somehow.The #80 is drawing heavy current.
::
::Check:
::
::1. That the proper # tubes are in the proper sockets
::
::2. That the #75 tests good on a tester. It could have a short in it.
::
::I always test all tubes and reinstall them before doing any work on a chassis.
::
::Lou
:
:
:
:
:
:It looks like, indeed, that the 80 and the rest of the "B" supply is ok with the other tubes removed. I suggest you use the 100 Watt bulb while, starting with just the 80 in place, insert one tube at a time until the lamp gets bright. That would be a good starting place.
:Lewis.
:
:Lewis, I tried your suggestion and went back to the 100 watt bulb in tester. I inserted one tube at a time with the#80in place,the bulb never did get bright
:so I plugged the radio directly to outlet and turned on just long enough to see if #80 over charged it did.I then pulled one tube at a time checking the #80. It went red hot each time. I'am planning to replace all the caps and the #75 tube but was wondering if there is other areas that I should check first for the high voltage to the #80 tube? I'am new to this and would'nt want to do any damage to the new parts.ksks Than
:
::
::: I performed a dim bulb test on a mod.44 Philco to check the power transformer with all tubes removed and using a 20w. bulb in the tester it glowed dimly. I then put in a 100w. bulb and the #80 rectifier tube. The 100w. lit up dimly and the rectifier tube had a dim glow. So I plugged the set into outlet all tubes installed,after a minute the #80 rectifier tube glowed very bright with a purple tinge that disapated in about 30 sec. but the tube was very hot I also noticed that all tubes were lit but the #75 2nd det.1st af.tube. Any ideas on where to check next would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
:::
::
::
:
:

:::Sounds like you are shorting out the power supply by insertion of the tubes somehow.The #80 is drawing heavy current.
:::
:::Check:
:::
:::1. That the proper # tubes are in the proper sockets
:::
:::2. That the #75 tests good on a tester. It could have a short in it.
:::
:::I always test all tubes and reinstall them before doing any work on a chassis.
:::
:::Lou
::
::
::
::
::
::It looks like, indeed, that the 80 and the rest of the "B" supply is ok with the other tubes removed. I suggest you use the 100 Watt bulb while, starting with just the 80 in place, insert one tube at a time until the lamp gets bright. That would be a good starting place.
::Lewis.
::
::Lewis, I tried your suggestion and went back to the 100 watt bulb in tester. I inserted one tube at a time with the#80in place,the bulb never did get bright
::so I plugged the radio directly to outlet and turned on just long enough to see if #80 over charged it did.I then pulled one tube at a time checking the #80. It went red hot each time. I'am planning to replace all the caps and the #75 tube but was wondering if there is other areas that I should check first for the high voltage to the #80 tube? I'am new to this and would'nt want to do any damage to the new parts.ksks Than

Mike:
I wouldn't plug the radio directly into the wall without the 100 Watt bulb. The cold filament has a very low resistance, and by light up brightly, will protect the radio, while letting almost full line Voltage under normal conditions.

Shorting filter capacitor is the first thing that comes to mind. The output stage is the only stage that should be able to overload the rectifier. With just the output tube in place, the bulb should start out dim, then brighten slightly as the output tube warms up. An Ohmmeter connected to the B+ line with power off should show a short in case something really weird is happening, like a tube pin shorting a wire or something like that.

Lewis

::
:::
:::: I performed a dim bulb test on a mod.44 Philco to check the power transformer with all tubes removed and using a 20w. bulb in the tester it glowed dimly. I then put in a 100w. bulb and the #80 rectifier tube. The 100w. lit up dimly and the rectifier tube had a dim glow. So I plugged the set into outlet all tubes installed,after a minute the #80 rectifier tube glowed very bright with a purple tinge that disapated in about 30 sec. but the tube was very hot I also noticed that all tubes were lit but the #75 2nd det.1st af.tube. Any ideas on where to check next would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
::::
:::
:::
::
::
:
:

::::Sounds like you are shorting out the power supply by insertion of the tubes somehow.The #80 is drawing heavy current.
::::
::::Check:
::::
::::1. That the proper # tubes are in the proper sockets
::::
::::2. That the #75 tests good on a tester. It could have a short in it.
::::
::::I always test all tubes and reinstall them before doing any work on a chassis.
::::
::::Lou
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::It looks like, indeed, that the 80 and the rest of the "B" supply is ok with the other tubes removed. I suggest you use the 100 Watt bulb while, starting with just the 80 in place, insert one tube at a time until the lamp gets bright. That would be a good starting place.
:::Lewis.
:::
:::Lewis, I tried your suggestion and went back to the 100 watt bulb in tester. I inserted one tube at a time with the#80in place,the bulb never did get bright
:::so I plugged the radio directly to outlet and turned on just long enough to see if #80 over charged it did.I then pulled one tube at a time checking the #80. It went red hot each time. I'am planning to replace all the caps and the #75 tube but was wondering if there is other areas that I should check first for the high voltage to the #80 tube? I'am new to this and would'nt want to do any damage to the new parts.ksks Than
:
:
:
:Mike:
:I wouldn't plug the radio directly into the wall without the 100 Watt bulb. The cold filament has a very low resistance, and by light up brightly, will protect the radio, while letting almost full line Voltage under normal conditions.
:
:Shorting filter capacitor is the first thing that comes to mind. The output stage is the only stage that should be able to overload the rectifier. With just the output tube in place, the bulb should start out dim, then brighten slightly as the output tube warms up. An Ohmmeter connected to the B+ line with power off should show a short in case something really weird is happening, like a tube pin shorting a wire or something like that.
:
:Lewis
:
:Thanks for the new info. You might have read in one of my posts that I'am new to this and as I have been reading alot of the Q&As and found one that said you must have the speaker hooked up. Mine is not at this time.I could use some help to hook it up if you don't mind. It has 3 wires comming out of the speaker plug but I dont know how they should be connected to the field coil. I see in the schematic that one looks like it comes from the rectifier tube to the field coil & says white and green. On the other side of FC. shows white going to the 1st I.F transformer. and to the output transformer. I can try to send a picture of the schematic if you need it. Thanks
:
:::
::::
::::: I performed a dim bulb test on a mod.44 Philco to check the power transformer with all tubes removed and using a 20w. bulb in the tester it glowed dimly. I then put in a 100w. bulb and the #80 rectifier tube. The 100w. lit up dimly and the rectifier tube had a dim glow. So I plugged the set into outlet all tubes installed,after a minute the #80 rectifier tube glowed very bright with a purple tinge that disapated in about 30 sec. but the tube was very hot I also noticed that all tubes were lit but the #75 2nd det.1st af.tube. Any ideas on where to check next would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
:::::
::::
::::
:::
:::
::
::
:
:

Hi Mike,
First suspect is filter capacitors when this happens. Even more so if the blue flickers. This happens as bad filters short and then blow the shorts clean.
Also consider can-ohm resistors. These are high wattage resistors with metal jackets that are riveted to the chassis. Often the insulation between the resistor and metal jacket fails, shorting the voltage to ground.
Oddly these usually show up these usually show up with just the 80 installed on its own, so you may have something more subtle here.

Your next planned step is to change the capacitors. That is the best thing to do now.

All the Best,

Bill Grimm
:::::Sounds like you are shorting out the power supply by insertion of the tubes somehow.The #80 is drawing heavy current.
:::::
:::::Check:
:::::
:::::1. That the proper # tubes are in the proper sockets
:::::
:::::2. That the #75 tests good on a tester. It could have a short in it.
:::::
:::::I always test all tubes and reinstall them before doing any work on a chassis.
:::::
:::::Lou
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::It looks like, indeed, that the 80 and the rest of the "B" supply is ok with the other tubes removed. I suggest you use the 100 Watt bulb while, starting with just the 80 in place, insert one tube at a time until the lamp gets bright. That would be a good starting place.
::::Lewis.
::::
::::Lewis, I tried your suggestion and went back to the 100 watt bulb in tester. I inserted one tube at a time with the#80in place,the bulb never did get bright
::::so I plugged the radio directly to outlet and turned on just long enough to see if #80 over charged it did.I then pulled one tube at a time checking the #80. It went red hot each time. I'am planning to replace all the caps and the #75 tube but was wondering if there is other areas that I should check first for the high voltage to the #80 tube? I'am new to this and would'nt want to do any damage to the new parts.ksks Than
::
::
::
::Mike:
::I wouldn't plug the radio directly into the wall without the 100 Watt bulb. The cold filament has a very low resistance, and by light up brightly, will protect the radio, while letting almost full line Voltage under normal conditions.
::
::Shorting filter capacitor is the first thing that comes to mind. The output stage is the only stage that should be able to overload the rectifier. With just the output tube in place, the bulb should start out dim, then brighten slightly as the output tube warms up. An Ohmmeter connected to the B+ line with power off should show a short in case something really weird is happening, like a tube pin shorting a wire or something like that.
::
::Lewis
::
::Thanks for the new info. You might have read in one of my posts that I'am new to this and as I have been reading alot of the Q&As and found one that said you must have the speaker hooked up. Mine is not at this time.I could use some help to hook it up if you don't mind. It has 3 wires comming out of the speaker plug but I dont know how they should be connected to the field coil. I see in the schematic that one looks like it comes from the rectifier tube to the field coil & says white and green. On the other side of FC. shows white going to the 1st I.F transformer. and to the output transformer. I can try to send a picture of the schematic if you need it. Thanks
::
::::
:::::
:::::: I performed a dim bulb test on a mod.44 Philco to check the power transformer with all tubes removed and using a 20w. bulb in the tester it glowed dimly. I then put in a 100w. bulb and the #80 rectifier tube. The 100w. lit up dimly and the rectifier tube had a dim glow. So I plugged the set into outlet all tubes installed,after a minute the #80 rectifier tube glowed very bright with a purple tinge that disapated in about 30 sec. but the tube was very hot I also noticed that all tubes were lit but the #75 2nd det.1st af.tube. Any ideas on where to check next would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
::::::
:::::
:::::
::::
::::
:::
:::
::
::
:
:

:Hi Mike,
: First suspect is filter capacitors when this happens. Even more so if the blue flickers. This happens as bad filters short and then blow the shorts clean.
: Also consider can-ohm resistors. These are high wattage resistors with metal jackets that are riveted to the chassis. Often the insulation between the resistor and metal jacket fails, shorting the voltage to ground.
: Oddly these usually show up these usually show up with just the 80 installed on its own, so you may have something more subtle here.
:
: Your next planned step is to change the capacitors. That is the best thing to do now.
:
:All the Best,
:
:Bill Grimm
::::::Sounds like you are shorting out the power supply by insertion of the tubes somehow.The #80 is drawing heavy current.
::::::
::::::Check:
::::::
::::::1. That the proper # tubes are in the proper sockets
::::::
::::::2. That the #75 tests good on a tester. It could have a short in it.
::::::
::::::I always test all tubes and reinstall them before doing any work on a chassis.
::::::
::::::Lou
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::It looks like, indeed, that the 80 and the rest of the "B" supply is ok with the other tubes removed. I suggest you use the 100 Watt bulb while, starting with just the 80 in place, insert one tube at a time until the lamp gets bright. That would be a good starting place.
:::::Lewis.
:::::
:::::Lewis, I tried your suggestion and went back to the 100 watt bulb in tester. I inserted one tube at a time with the#80in place,the bulb never did get bright
:::::so I plugged the radio directly to outlet and turned on just long enough to see if #80 over charged it did.I then pulled one tube at a time checking the #80. It went red hot each time. I'am planning to replace all the caps and the #75 tube but was wondering if there is other areas that I should check first for the high voltage to the #80 tube? I'am new to this and would'nt want to do any damage to the new parts.ksks Than
:::
:::
:::
:::Mike:
:::I wouldn't plug the radio directly into the wall without the 100 Watt bulb. The cold filament has a very low resistance, and by light up brightly, will protect the radio, while letting almost full line Voltage under normal conditions.
:::
:::Shorting filter capacitor is the first thing that comes to mind. The output stage is the only stage that should be able to overload the rectifier. With just the output tube in place, the bulb should start out dim, then brighten slightly as the output tube warms up. An Ohmmeter connected to the B+ line with power off should show a short in case something really weird is happening, like a tube pin shorting a wire or something like that.
:::
:::Lewis
:::
:::Thanks for the new info. You might have read in one of my posts that I'am new to this and as I have been reading alot of the Q&As and found one that said you must have the speaker hooked up. Mine is not at this time.I could use some help to hook it up if you don't mind. It has 3 wires comming out of the speaker plug but I dont know how they should be connected to the field coil. I see in the schematic that one looks like it comes from the rectifier tube to the field coil & says white and green. On the other side of FC. shows white going to the 1st I.F transformer. and to the output transformer. I can try to send a picture of the schematic if you need it. Thanks
:::
:::::
::::::
::::::: I performed a dim bulb test on a mod.44 Philco to check the power transformer with all tubes removed and using a 20w. bulb in the tester it glowed dimly. I then put in a 100w. bulb and the #80 rectifier tube. The 100w. lit up dimly and the rectifier tube had a dim glow. So I plugged the set into outlet all tubes installed,after a minute the #80 rectifier tube glowed very bright with a purple tinge that disapated in about 30 sec. but the tube was very hot I also noticed that all tubes were lit but the #75 2nd det.1st af.tube. Any ideas on where to check next would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
:::::::
::::::
::::::
:::::
:::::
::::
::::
:::
:::
::
::
:
:

::Hi Mike,
:: First suspect is filter capacitors when this happens. Even more so if the blue flickers. This happens as bad filters short and then blow the shorts clean.
:: Also consider can-ohm resistors. These are high wattage resistors with metal jackets that are riveted to the chassis. Often the insulation between the resistor and metal jacket fails, shorting the voltage to ground.
:: Oddly these usually show up these usually show up with just the 80 installed on its own, so you may have something more subtle here.
::
:: Your next planned step is to change the capacitors. That is the best thing to do now.
::
::All the Best,
::
::Bill Grimm
Thanks Bill G.I'am putting an order list of caps together:You mention the metal cans mine has 2 that the schematic calls condenser electrolytic. As I have been studying all the underneath of this radio I kept finding parts that wer'nt on the schem. One of the cans is bypassed' the wires are twisted together about where they would connect to the can. One of the wires comes from a bakelite block condensor the other goes to a large capacitor 10+10 MFD 450 W.V. its a dry electrolytic thats not on the schematic it has 2 positive wires one goes to a condensor .015 MFD twin the other pos. wire goes to filiment pin of the rectifier tube.I think this might have been used to take the place of the can. the other can "they're side by side "is hooked up ,.its a 6 MFD electrolytic and grounds to the chassis.Should I replace the 10+10 with one simular cap? PS. Radio was my fathers. He bought it in 1950s it played up untill the early 1970s and went to corner of basement so anything I'am finding in the chassis must had been done before he bought it. other than tubes I know he never had to have it worked on. Thanks for any advice.
:::::::1. That the proper # tubes are in the proper
:::::::2. That the #75 tests good on a tester. It could have a short in it.
:::::::
:::::::I always test all tubes and reinstall them before doing any work on a chassis.
:::::::
:::::::Lou
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::It looks like, indeed, that the 80 and the rest of the "B" supply is ok with the other tubes removed. I suggest you use the 100 Watt bulb while, starting with just the 80 in place, insert one tube at a time until the lamp gets bright. That would be a good starting place.
::::::Lewis.
::::::
::::::Lewis, I tried your suggestion and went back to the 100 watt bulb in tester. I inserted one tube at a time with the#80in place,the bulb never did get bright
::::::so I plugged the radio directly to outlet and turned on just long enough to see if #80 over charged it did.I then pulled one tube at a time checking the #80. It went red hot each time. I'am planning to replace all the caps and the #75 tube but was wondering if there is other areas that I should check first for the high voltage to the #80 tube? I'am new to this and would'nt want to do any damage to the new parts.ksks Than
::::
::::
::::
::::Mike:
::::I wouldn't plug the radio directly into the wall without the 100 Watt bulb. The cold filament has a very low resistance, and by light up brightly, will protect the radio, while letting almost full line Voltage under normal conditions.
::::
::::Shorting filter capacitor is the first thing that comes to mind. The output stage is the only stage that should be able to overload the rectifier. With just the output tube in place, the bulb should start out dim, then brighten slightly as the output tube warms up. An Ohmmeter connected to the B+ line with power off should show a short in case something really weird is happening, like a tube pin shorting a wire or something like that.
::::
::::Lewis
::::
::::Thanks for the new info. You might have read in one of my posts that I'am new to this and as I have been reading alot of the Q&As and found one that said you must have the speaker hooked up. Mine is not at this time.I could use some help to hook it up if you don't mind. It has 3 wires comming out of the speaker plug but I dont know how they should be connected to the field coil. I see in the schematic that one looks like it comes from the rectifier tube to the field coil & says white and green. On the other side of FC. shows white going to the 1st I.F transformer. and to the output transformer. I can try to send a picture of the schematic if you need it. Thanks
::::
::::::
:::::::
:::::::: I performed a dim bulb test on a mod.44 Philco to check the power transformer with all tubes removed and using a 20w. bulb in the tester it glowed dimly. I then put in a 100w. bulb and the #80 rectifier tube. The 100w. lit up dimly and the rectifier tube had a dim glow. So I plugged the set into outlet all tubes installed,after a minute the #80 rectifier tube glowed very bright with a purple tinge that disapated in about 30 sec. but the tube was very hot I also noticed that all tubes were lit but the #75 2nd det.1st af.tube. Any ideas on where to check next would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
::::::::
:::::::
:::::::
::::::
::::::
:::::
:::::
::::
::::
:::
:::
::
::
:
: