Multiple junctions in space

10/27/2012 1:16:36 AMLou

Guys:

I have a radio where someone soldered three or more wires together in space from various components underneath the chassis ( not my usual practice ).
The radio works and I really do not want to disturb the components. BUT how do I sleeve/insulate this kind of wiring without using sleeving ( which would require disassembly and may not work in all cases ) OR electrical tape ( Ugh - has a tendency to dry out and unravel itself)? Is there a liquid or other material that you can put on these junctions to insulate properly?

Thanks All
Lou

10/27/2012 7:14:26 AMLewis L.

:Guys:
:
:I have a radio where someone soldered three or more wires together in space from various components underneath the chassis ( not my usual practice ).
:The radio works and I really do not want to disturb the components. BUT how do I sleeve/insulate this kind of wiring without using sleeving ( which would require disassembly and may not work in all cases ) OR electrical tape ( Ugh - has a tendency to dry out and unravel itself)? Is there a liquid or other material that you can put on these junctions to insulate properly?
:
:Thanks All
:Lou

Lou:
The first thing that comes to mind is the silicone rubber marketed by GE (RTV), and others,(Silastic) which will sure insulate and never dry out, but my experience is it will look bad no matter how carefully you try to allpy it, an attempts to make it look better make it look worse.
Lewis
:

10/27/2012 7:16:38 AMLewis L.

::Guys:
::
::I have a radio where someone soldered three or more wires together in space from various components underneath the chassis ( not my usual practice ).
::The radio works and I really do not want to disturb the components. BUT how do I sleeve/insulate this kind of wiring without using sleeving ( which would require disassembly and may not work in all cases ) OR electrical tape ( Ugh - has a tendency to dry out and unravel itself)? Is there a liquid or other material that you can put on these junctions to insulate properly?
::
::Thanks All
::Lou
:
:Lou:
:The first thing that comes to mind is the silicone rubber marketed by GE (RTV), and others,(Silastic) which will sure insulate and never dry out, but my experience is that it will look bad no matter how carefully you try to allpy it, an attempts to make it look better make it look worse.
:Lewis
P. S. That is apply....I haven't finished my first cuppa coffee yet.
LL
'

10/27/2012 10:31:24 AMEdd

Sir Lou. . . .

SOLVING the great triangulated junctions wiring conundrum:

Undoubtedly in all of your timely and astute observations in past years, at one time you might have seen the offering

of a VINYL tool dip liquid solution.

By its utilization, you can take " naked " pliers , (etc) handles and dip them into the magical elixar and hang up to air

dry and then when dried (or multiple dipped )you then have vinyl insulated handles . . . usually RED IIRC.

Now . . . MY . . .el cheapo variant solution . . . . is to use the product below which I gets at WALLY WOILD . . . .or youse

can pays thru the noses at O-fish -ulls " CRAFT " stores.

Seems like they are a buck a pop or sometimes 69 cents at WW if they are rotating out time aged code dates ,

with their red tag closeouts.

Now I don't particularly remember the SLICK connotation on the label but it is a shiny coating and it is the FABRIC version,

not just their common acrylic paint, which they also offer.

Lay-dies (a la Aussie'ese) are using them mostly for decorating on cotton Tee shirts, where using the nozzle and the laying on

of lines or dots will leave raised patterning or dots of insulative pure vinyl when dried.

If I am just covering a small soldered blob of a terminal, I will just use the built in conical applicators end.

If I need to cover a wires length I will thin it out so that I can then use a sable small artists brush to make a nice linear brush

stroked application.

I usually just use the clear plactic cover / cap of the unit and
use about a 50/50 percent of microwave warmed water and shoot

a like amount of vinyl from the spout into the cap.

Mix with the brush and then make a neat application and wait for the drying out, or assist a bit with the warm air from a blow
drier.

Over time, I have amassed a collection of all of the color code colors, but with black, red and white getting the most frequent
use.

Thassit . . . . .

73's de Edd

Kids in the back seat cause accidents.. . . . .hmmmmm . . .but likewise . . .accidents in the back seat, cause kids.

:::Guys:
:::
:::I have a radio where someone soldered three or more wires together in space from various components underneath the chassis ( not my usual practice ).
:::The radio works and I really do not want to disturb the components. BUT how do I sleeve/insulate this kind of wiring without using sleeving ( which would require disassembly and may not work in all cases ) OR electrical tape ( Ugh - has a tendency to dry out and unravel itself)? Is there a liquid or other material that you can put on these junctions to insulate properly?
:::
:::Thanks All
:::Lou
::
::Lou:
::The first thing that comes to mind is the silicone rubber marketed by GE (RTV), and others,(Silastic) which will sure insulate and never dry out, but my experience is that it will look bad no matter how carefully you try to allpy it, an attempts to make it look better make it look worse.
::Lewis
:P. S. That is apply....I haven't finished my first cuppa coffee yet.
:LL
:'
:
:

10/27/2012 1:25:16 PMLewis L.

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:

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:Sir Lou. . . .
:
:
:
:
:SOLVING the great triangulated junctions wiring conundrum:
:
:
:
:Undoubtedly in all of your timely and astute observations in past years, at one time you might have seen the offering
:
:of a VINYL tool dip liquid solution.
:
:
:By its utilization, you can take " naked " pliers , (etc) handles and dip them into the magical elixar and hang up to air
:
: dry and then when dried (or multiple dipped )you then have vinyl insulated handles . . . usually RED IIRC.
:
:
:
:Now . . . MY . . .el cheapo variant solution . . . . is to use the product below which I gets at WALLY WOILD . . . .or youse
:
:can pays thru the noses at O-fish -ulls " CRAFT " stores.
:
:
:Seems like they are a buck a pop or sometimes 69 cents at WW if they are rotating out time aged code dates ,
:
:with their red tag closeouts.
:
:
:
:

:
:
:
:
:
:Now I don't particularly remember the SLICK connotation on the label but it is a shiny coating and it is the FABRIC version,
:
: not just their common acrylic paint, which they also offer.
:
:
:
:Lay-dies (a la Aussie'ese) are using them mostly for decorating on cotton Tee shirts, where using the nozzle and the laying on
:
: of lines or dots will leave raised patterning or dots of insulative pure vinyl when dried.
:
:
:If I am just covering a small soldered blob of a terminal, I will just use the built in conical applicators end.
:
:
:If I need to cover a wires length I will thin it out so that I can then use a sable small artists brush to make a nice linear brush
:
:stroked application.
:
:
:I usually just use the clear plactic cover / cap of the unit and
:use about a 50/50 percent of microwave warmed water and shoot
:
:a like amount of vinyl from the spout into the cap.
:
:
:Mix with the brush and then make a neat application and wait for the drying out, or assist a bit with the warm air from a blow
:drier.
:
:
:Over time, I have amassed a collection of all of the color code colors, but with black, red and white getting the most frequent
: use.
:
:
:
:
:Thassit . . . . .
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:73's de Edd
:
:
:
:
:
:Kids in the back seat cause accidents.. . . . .hmmmmm . . .but likewise . . .accidents in the back seat, cause kids.
:
:
:Say, Edd, I bought some stuff from Mouser....they is in Texas....do you visit them, also? Seem like nize fokes...sure do ship fast.
Lewis
:
:
:
:
:
:

:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
::::Guys:
::::
::::I have a radio where someone soldered three or more wires together in space from various components underneath the chassis ( not my usual practice ).
::::The radio works and I really do not want to disturb the components. BUT how do I sleeve/insulate this kind of wiring without using sleeving ( which would require disassembly and may not work in all cases ) OR electrical tape ( Ugh - has a tendency to dry out and unravel itself)? Is there a liquid or other material that you can put on these junctions to insulate properly?
::::
::::Thanks All
::::Lou
:::
:::Lou:
:::The first thing that comes to mind is the silicone rubber marketed by GE (RTV), and others,(Silastic) which will sure insulate and never dry out, but my experience is that it will look bad no matter how carefully you try to allpy it, an attempts to make it look better make it look worse.
:::Lewis
::P. S. That is apply....I haven't finished my first cuppa coffee yet.
::LL
::'
::
::
:
:

10/27/2012 10:00:44 AMRichard

Lou,

I have successfully used "Liquid Electrical Tape". I've bought it at both Lowes and Home Depot in the past. It comes in a can with an applicator brush. It is difficult to make a 'pretty' covering but it will definitely insulate the wires. I have it in both Red and Black.

Richard

10/27/2012 10:09:27 AMDennis Wess

Hmmm....maybe it would be a good idea to provide a good secure anchor point for those wires.

A simple 2 lug termstrip mounted to the chassis (screw or solder) would do so. Just be sure to not tie any connections into the grounded lug.....unless they are supposed to go to chassis ground.

10/27/2012 10:23:21 AMWarren

You could use brush on enamel model car paint. Two coats should make a safe insulation.

10/27/2012 2:11:40 PMLou

Thanks All

All good suggestions.

I agree with the "lug" idea but due to the age of the attached components I didnt want to stress things again by rerouting them.

I like the liquid tape and enamel idea too.

Again this is not the usual way I do things but the radio is working well and I thought in this case it is better to leave well enough alone.

I will consider all.

Thanks
Lou

:You could use brush on enamel model car paint. Two coats should make a safe insulation.
:

10/27/2012 2:38:48 PMEdd

Sir Lou. . . .

SOLVING the great triangulated junctions wiring conundrum:

Undoubtedly in all of your timely and astute observations in past years, at one time you might have seen the offering

of a VINYL tool dip liquid solution.

By its utilization, you can take " naked " pliers , (etc) handles and dip them into the magical elixar and hang up to air

dry and then when dried (or multiple dipped )you then have vinyl insulated handles . . . usually RED IIRC.

Now . . . MY . . .el cheapo variant solution . . . . is to use the product below which I gets at WALLY WOILD . . . .or youse

can pays thru the noses at O-fish -ulls " CRAFT " stores.

Seems like they are a buck a pop or sometimes 69 cents at WW if they are rotating out time aged code dates ,

with their red tag closeouts.

Now I don't particularly remember the SLICK connotation on the label but it is a shiny coating and it is the FABRIC version,

not just their common acrylic paint, which they also offer.

Lay-dies (a la Aussie'ese) are using them mostly for decorating on cotton Tee shirts, where using the nozzle and the laying on

of lines or dots will leave raised patterning or dots of insulative pure vinyl when dried.

If I am just covering a small soldered blob of a terminal, I will just use the built in conical applicators end.

If I need to cover a wires length I will thin it out so that I can then use a sable small artists brush to make a nice linear brush

stroked application.

I usually just use the clear plactic cover / cap of the unit and
use about a 50/50 percent of microwave warmed water and shoot

a like amount of vinyl from the spout into the cap.

Mix with the brush and then make a neat application and wait for the drying out, or assist a bit with the warm air from a blow
drier.

Over time, I have amassed a collection of all of the color code colors, but with black, red and white getting the most frequent
use.

Thassit . . . . .

73's de Edd

Kids in the back seat cause accidents.. . . . .hmmmmm . . .but likewise . . .accidents in the back seat, cause kids.

10/27/2012 3:08:11 PMRichard

Dear Mister Edd, do you have any opinions on the longevity of the vinyl paint solution. I would be particularly interested in the effects of heat over time.

I have used the Liquid Electrical Tape and seen no significant ill effects over time and heat with it. However it is designed for electrical use (including marine environments).

Just curious, always up to save a buck, but not at the risk of safety down the road.

Richard

:
:

:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:Sir Lou. . . .
:
:
:
:
:SOLVING the great triangulated junctions wiring conundrum:
:
:
:
:Undoubtedly in all of your timely and astute observations in past years, at one time you might have seen the offering
:
:of a VINYL tool dip liquid solution.
:
:
:By its utilization, you can take " naked " pliers , (etc) handles and dip them into the magical elixar and hang up to air
:
: dry and then when dried (or multiple dipped )you then have vinyl insulated handles . . . usually RED IIRC.
:
:
:
:Now . . . MY . . .el cheapo variant solution . . . . is to use the product below which I gets at WALLY WOILD . . . .or youse
:
:can pays thru the noses at O-fish -ulls " CRAFT " stores.
:
:
:Seems like they are a buck a pop or sometimes 69 cents at WW if they are rotating out time aged code dates ,
:
:with their red tag closeouts.
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:Now I don't particularly remember the SLICK connotation on the label but it is a shiny coating and it is the FABRIC version,
:
: not just their common acrylic paint, which they also offer.
:
:
:
:Lay-dies (a la Aussie'ese) are using them mostly for decorating on cotton Tee shirts, where using the nozzle and the laying on
:
: of lines or dots will leave raised patterning or dots of insulative pure vinyl when dried.
:
:
:If I am just covering a small soldered blob of a terminal, I will just use the built in conical applicators end.
:
:
:If I need to cover a wires length I will thin it out so that I can then use a sable small artists brush to make a nice linear brush
:
:stroked application.
:
:
:I usually just use the clear plactic cover / cap of the unit and
:use about a 50/50 percent of microwave warmed water and shoot
:
:a like amount of vinyl from the spout into the cap.
:
:
:Mix with the brush and then make a neat application and wait for the drying out, or assist a bit with the warm air from a blow
:drier.
:
:
:Over time, I have amassed a collection of all of the color code colors, but with black, red and white getting the most frequent
: use.
:
:
:
:
:Thassit . . . . .
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:73's de Edd
:
:
:
:
:
:Kids in the back seat cause accidents.. . . . .hmmmmm . . .but likewise . . .accidents in the back seat, cause kids.
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:

:
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:
:
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:

10/27/2012 3:37:43 PMGeorge T

:Dear Mister Edd, do you have any opinions on the longevity of the vinyl paint solution. I would be particularly interested in the effects of heat over time.
:
:I have used the Liquid Electrical Tape and seen no significant ill effects over time and heat with it. However it is designed for electrical use (including marine environments).
:

Hi Lou, I use the electric brush on tape. You can get a bottle at Harbor Freight for under 5 bucks. It can be used on many exposed wires or fragile wires under the chassis. Good Luck, George T.

:Just curious, always up to save a buck, but not at the risk of safety down the road.
:
:Richard
:
:
::
::

::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::Sir Lou. . . .
::
::
::
::
::SOLVING the great triangulated junctions wiring conundrum:
::
::
::
::Undoubtedly in all of your timely and astute observations in past years, at one time you might have seen the offering
::
::of a VINYL tool dip liquid solution.
::
::
::By its utilization, you can take " naked " pliers , (etc) handles and dip them into the magical elixar and hang up to air
::
:: dry and then when dried (or multiple dipped )you then have vinyl insulated handles . . . usually RED IIRC.
::
::
::
::Now . . . MY . . .el cheapo variant solution . . . . is to use the product below which I gets at WALLY WOILD . . . .or youse
::
::can pays thru the noses at O-fish -ulls " CRAFT " stores.
::
::
::Seems like they are a buck a pop or sometimes 69 cents at WW if they are rotating out time aged code dates ,
::
::with their red tag closeouts.
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::Now I don't particularly remember the SLICK connotation on the label but it is a shiny coating and it is the FABRIC version,
::
:: not just their common acrylic paint, which they also offer.
::
::
::
::Lay-dies (a la Aussie'ese) are using them mostly for decorating on cotton Tee shirts, where using the nozzle and the laying on
::
:: of lines or dots will leave raised patterning or dots of insulative pure vinyl when dried.
::
::
::If I am just covering a small soldered blob of a terminal, I will just use the built in conical applicators end.
::
::
::If I need to cover a wires length I will thin it out so that I can then use a sable small artists brush to make a nice linear brush
::
::stroked application.
::
::
::I usually just use the clear plactic cover / cap of the unit and
::use about a 50/50 percent of microwave warmed water and shoot
::
::a like amount of vinyl from the spout into the cap.
::
::
::Mix with the brush and then make a neat application and wait for the drying out, or assist a bit with the warm air from a blow
::drier.
::
::
::Over time, I have amassed a collection of all of the color code colors, but with black, red and white getting the most frequent
:: use.
::
::
::
::
::Thassit . . . . .
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::73's de Edd
::
::
::
::
::
::Kids in the back seat cause accidents.. . . . .hmmmmm . . .but likewise . . .accidents in the back seat, cause kids.
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::

::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
:
:

10/28/2012 8:34:01 PMLou

All:

I went to Home Depot today and picked up a bottle of the Liquid Tape. I got the RED color since I reasoned that it may be protecting some B+ connections ( RED means DANGER).

Cant wait to try it out!!

Lou

10/28/2012 9:56:55 PMHarry

Why do you think the connection needs protection? If it is under the chassis what is going to disturb it? Are you planning to poke around when the set is on? Are you worried about mice hitting it as they scurry around under there or it being a danger to cockroaches? Seriously, things like this may look bad but they won't cause problems. You say the set works fine like it is. Why not just leave it alone?

:All:
:
:I went to Home Depot today and picked up a bottle of the Liquid Tape. I got the RED color since I reasoned that it may be protecting some B+ connections ( RED means DANGER).
:
:Cant wait to try it out!!
:
:Lou
:
::Guys:
::
::I have a radio where someone soldered three or more wires together in space from various components underneath the chassis ( not my usual practice ).
::The radio works and I really do not want to disturb the components. BUT how do I sleeve/insulate this kind of wiring without using sleeving ( which would require disassembly and may not work in all cases ) OR electrical tape ( Ugh - has a tendency to dry out and unravel itself)? Is there a liquid or other material that you can put on these junctions to insulate properly?
::
::Thanks All
::Lou
::
:
:

10/29/2012 4:08:50 AMLou

A few of these connections are "floating". I tend to be fussy and want the extra protection for the receiver components.

Lou

:Why do you think the connection needs protection? If it is under the chassis what is going to disturb it? Are you planning to poke around when the set is on? Are you worried about mice hitting it as they scurry around under there or it being a danger to cockroaches? Seriously, things like this may look bad but they won't cause problems. You say the set works fine like it is. Why not just leave it alone?
:
:
::All:
::
::I went to Home Depot today and picked up a bottle of the Liquid Tape. I got the RED color since I reasoned that it may be protecting some B+ connections ( RED means DANGER).
::
::Cant wait to try it out!!
::
::Lou
::
:::Guys:
:::
:::I have a radio where someone soldered three or more wires together in space from various components underneath the chassis ( not my usual practice ).
:::The radio works and I really do not want to disturb the components. BUT how do I sleeve/insulate this kind of wiring without using sleeving ( which would require disassembly and may not work in all cases ) OR electrical tape ( Ugh - has a tendency to dry out and unravel itself)? Is there a liquid or other material that you can put on these junctions to insulate properly?
:::
:::Thanks All
:::Lou
:::
::
::
:
: