First timer...Crosley 106CP

7/11/2012 5:45:57 PMRandall

Hi, I am a first timer on here and a first timer with old radio repair. I bought my first old radio 1946 crosley 106CP. It was in great shape guy said it just needed a new power cord. I have been reading up and decided to change all the caps also. Once inside I found the tuner string was gone and replaced that too. I just tried it out today for the first time. It actually powered up and got ome decent channels. I let it run for about an hour no problems. When I tried it again later I heard some crackling and smelled smoke. It tuned out to be the tranformer on the speaker. It was heatng up an I saw some bubbling so I shut it down. Why is it happening the second time around? Also the tuner only travels about 1/3 of the dial what would stop it? Thanks.

7/11/2012 10:30:16 PMEdd

Sir Randall . . . . .

MAN . . . . . I was 'soitanly hoping that I could provide you a clearer schematic of this set, but, alas, 'twas not to be.

Soooooo . . . . . lets just trod thru wit what we gots !

WOW . . . . Powell Crosley had great aspirations with this unit . . . . one expects push pull audio output tube usage design on the better sets.

This one went one up and had PARALLEL push pull tubes.

If your out- putsie transformateur , that is mounted on the SPEAKER is " 'moking " and getting all hot, the best thing that we could hope for is a short , low resistance or arcing to be occuring on one (or both) of the the set of those two capacitors on the plate circuitry of the output tubes to ground.

That would make the primary of the output transformer to be VERY mad.

Since it normally has only dissipate the higher load presented by the output tubes conduction on power audio.

Those parts markings SEEMS to be items 39 and 40 with value of .0033 mfd and at a 600VDC rating.

Or upwards of a 1000 V rating if being replaced.

Lift the ground connection of both and ohm them out.

It is even permissible to run the set without them for testing, to see if that is only occurring at a dynamic operational condition ( such as arcing over )

I certainly hope that will be your problem source, and has not damaaged your output transformer yet.

Now . . . . .CHECK it out !

73's de Edd

Always listen to experts. They'll tell what can't be done and why. Then do it.

:Hi, I am a first timer on here and a first timer with old radio repair. I bought my first old radio 1946 crosley 106CP. It was in great shape guy said it just needed a new power cord. I have been reading up and decided to change all the caps also. Once inside I found the tuner string was gone and replaced that too. I just tried it out today for the first time. It actually powered up and got ome decent channels. I let it run for about an hour no problems. When I tried it again later I heard some crackling and smelled smoke. It tuned out to be the tranformer on the speaker. It was heatng up an I saw some bubbling so I shut it down. Why is it happening the second time around? Also the tuner only travels about 1/3 of the dial what would stop it? Thanks.
:

7/11/2012 10:47:47 PMParte deux . . . .

Sir Randall . . . . .

Parte Deux . . . .
I done wents and forgotted about that tuning condensateur.

With this being a first time " expewience " (a la The Fuddster) with dial restringerlating, look very closely at the point where your "stall" occurs.

Typically one will have a small 1/4 inch shaft coupling into a large tuning drum with the interconnecting dial cord.

There is a slot / open area on the large drum where the cord feeds in and pays out.

There is usually a PARTIAL turn around the large drum with your cord in one direction.

And there is GREATER than a turn in the other direction. Maybe you got them reversed.
View the situation and you can see that the cord is taunt between the 1/4 shaft and that
slot where your "stall" problem occurs, since NO more cord can be payed out.

See if that is being your restring situation.

73's de Edd

All good things must come to an end, I just want to know when they start !

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:Sir Randall . . . . .
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:
:MAN . . . . . I was 'soitanly hoping that I could provide you a clearer schematic of this set, but, alas, 'twas not to be.
:
:
:Soooooo . . . . . lets just trod thru wit what we gots !
:
:
:WOW . . . . Powell Crosley had great aspirations with this unit . . . . one expects push pull audio output tube usage design on the better sets.
:
:
:This one went one up and had PARALLEL push pull tubes.
:
: If your out- putsie transformateur , that is mounted on the SPEAKER is " 'moking " and getting all hot, the best thing that we could hope for is a short , low resistance or arcing to be occuring on one (or both) of the the set of those two capacitors on the plate circuitry of the output tubes to ground.
:
:
:That would make the primary of the output transformer to be VERY mad.
:
:
:Since it normally has only dissipate the higher load presented by the output tubes conduction on power audio.
:
:
:Those parts markings SEEMS to be items 39 and 40 with value of .0033 mfd and at a 600VDC rating.
:
:Or upwards of a 1000 V rating if being replaced.
:
:
:Lift the ground connection of both and ohm them out.
:
:
:It is even permissible to run the set without them for testing, to see if that is only occurring at a dynamic operational condition ( such as arcing over )
:
:
:I certainly hope that will be your problem source, and has not damaaged your output transformer yet.
:
:
:
: Now . . . . .CHECK it out !
:
:
:
:
:73's de Edd
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:
:
: Always listen to experts. They'll tell what can't be done and why. Then do it.
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::Hi, I am a first timer on here and a first timer with old radio repair. I bought my first old radio 1946 crosley 106CP. It was in great shape guy said it just needed a new power cord. I have been reading up and decided to change all the caps also. Once inside I found the tuner string was gone and replaced that too. I just tried it out today for the first time. It actually powered up and got ome decent channels. I let it run for about an hour no problems. When I tried it again later I heard some crackling and smelled smoke. It tuned out to be the tranformer on the speaker. It was heatng up an I saw some bubbling so I shut it down. Why is it happening the second time around? Also the tuner only travels about 1/3 of the dial what would stop it? Thanks.
::
:
:

7/12/2012 3:11:00 PMRandall

Hi Ed

Thanks for the tips. As I said I am a first timer and have little to no experience even with schematics but I think I found what you said on the schematic. I will check those out. I did replace them originally however. As for the tuning condenser, when I got it the chord was already missing so I don't know how it was strung. But even with no chord on it the drum doesn't turn any farther.

7/12/2012 10:00:22 PMEdd

Sir Randall . . . . .

No chance that you used a lower rated voltage replacement for those capacitors ?
The very highest voltage to be encountered in that set, will be on those AF output tubes plates with their developed peak voltages if the
sets volume is cranked way up.

Another thought on your tuning condensateurs limited rotational range . . . . . which should be right at 180 degrees.

If you are taking the tuning condensers drum / pulley and rotating it manually by hand, can we assume that you are OK with the plates completely UN meshed.?

Then as you start closing the unit, into its progressively more meshed positioning, you are stopped in your tracks at one specific point ?

Regfer to the most appropriate photo available of a tuning condenser that I am placing bee-low.

Note that the owner has bent the
BLEEEP
out of that extreme far right vane to enhance the view of its manner of construction.

You would be in trouble if that vane has been bent inwardly.

The fixed internal plates are called stator plates.

The rotatable outside plates are called rotor plates.

Note that on the two larger sets of rotor plates over to the right, that they are having their two extreme outer plates slitted.

When you are REALLY-REALLY-REALLY-REALLY good at it, this is a provision for moving a portion of that outer plate in or out to compensate for any mechanical tracking errors of the tuning condenser across its total rotational range.

Its a bend in or out and then let it spring back and then test and try-try-try-try-try AND try again situation.

All of this is no concern to you NOW, unless that tuning condenser has been rolled over . . .or been nudged against . . . in its unmeshed state and one of those outer plates is bent inward such that it then jams up against the companion STATOR plate and they hit and therby limit the further closing of the condenser at that "stall" position.

Rotate to that position, and a vewy-vewy close eyeball examination should confirm that .

Le tuning condensateur:

73's de Edd

A well-adjusted person is one who makes the same mistake twice without getting nervous.

:Hi Ed
:
:Thanks for the tips. As I said I am a first timer and have little to no experience even with schematics but I think I found what you said on the schematic. I will check those out. I did replace them originally however. As for the tuning condenser, when I got it the chord was already missing so I don't know how it was strung. But even with no chord on it the drum doesn't turn any farther.
:

7/13/2012 4:55:51 PMrandall

Hi Edd, I pulled the chassis out to have a look today. Problem #1 with the speaker coil overheating... I looked at the two caps that attach to the speaker jack. One was .0033 uF and the other was .0022 uF. I saw in the schematic where it said both were .0033 but I did replace value for value. All caps are 630V so I wasn't worried about that. Should I replace the .0022uF with a .0033uF ? Think that would do it?

On problem #2 with the tuning condenser. You were right with the first guess. I think my tuning chord was not right. Kept the condenser from full travel. I don't suppose there is a diagram anywhere of how to wrap it?

randall

7/13/2012 7:47:42 PMRandall

:Hi Edd, well I fooled with it and looked at the area around the speaker jack. I saw what may have been a short and fixed it. Then I messed with the tuner chord. I managed to figure that out also. So everything looks good. Powered it up and no smoking so far. Tuner went all the way around too. Gonna put it back together and se what it does. Thanks for your help! I may try another!

7/14/2012 7:42:29 PMEdd

Sir Randall. . . . .

If you come back again . . . .

CONGRANULATIONS

. . . you doood it !

Don't ya just get that warm fuzzy and tingly feeling after such an accomplishment ?

. . . . .but, if you didn't get the tingly part . . . probe your fingertips up around and into the AC wiring area .

YA always gotta watch the "paying out" and the "taking up" directions of the large tuning drum to confirm that there is just enough cord being wound around it to not END UP with the cord end up "taut" in a straight line from the feed out area of the tuning drum and its adjunct knob shaft that it is feeding to and from.

In looking up your model . . . in a restring guide . . . I now feed the relevant info to you, since I didn't realize that an associative sliding dial scale was also being involved.

73's de Edd

Ever notice how irons have a setting for *permanent* press?. . . . . I just don't get it !

::Hi Edd, well I fooled with it and looked at the area around the speaker jack. I saw what may have been a short and fixed it. Then I messed with the tuner chord. I managed to figure that out also. So everything looks good. Powered it up and no smoking so far. Tuner went all the way around too. Gonna put it back together and se what it does. Thanks for your help! I may try another!
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