TNX,
Lewis
Also may be called a varistor. Is there a part number for the device?
Lou
:Someone gave me a SC Model 1116 AM radio, and it looks OK except for the surge resistor in the filament string. It's gone. Not there. The schematic is on this site, but all I can get is it is an NPO resistor. Pardon the old age, but I cannot remember the name of this filament protector....seems it started with a GLO....something. Starts off with a high resistance, and as it (and the filaments) warm up, drops the resistance until the tubes have proper Voltage and there is no uneven heating of the filaments. Help, anyone??? What and from whom?
:
:
:
:TNX,
:Lewis
:
Lou
:Someone gave me a SC Model 1116 AM radio, and it looks OK except for the surge resistor in the filament string. It's gone. Not there. The schematic is on this site, but all I can get is it is an NPO resistor. Pardon the old age, but I cannot remember the name of this filament protector....seems it started with a GLO....something. Starts off with a high resistance, and as it (and the filaments) warm up, drops the resistance until the tubes have proper Voltage and there is no uneven heating of the filaments. Help, anyone??? What and from whom?
:
:
:
:TNX,
:Lewis
:
:
:Lou
OOPZ...My bad!!! It is a model 1500H, the H being, I guess, the brown cabinet it lives in. Got three radios at the same place, got model numbers mixed up. Yeah, Glo-Bar, that's what I am trying to think of. Anyway, the one that was in there is now carbon all over the interior of the chassis. The model 1116 is a Constellation, made or marketed by the Gulf Tire and Supply Co., and it needs re-capping BAD before I even think of it working. I VARIACed it and got all the tubes to light up, but no B+. This one has push-pull 25L6s in the output, kinda odd for a table model with a 6" speaker, but it has a pretty wood cabinet, and might be made to sell for a small profit.
On your television restoration, that is the first I've seen with all of the round CRT showing, usually they masked it off to a rectangle and wasted the corners. Does it show a round picture, or do you have the standard aspect ratio with the corners dark?
If anyone can help with a schematic of the Gulf Tube and Supply "Constellation" 1116 model, I might need it if re-capping alone doesn't make it play. I'm still wondering about those PP 25L6s in a table model.
Lewis
:
::Someone gave me a SC Model 1116 AM radio, and it looks OK except for the surge resistor in the filament string. It's gone. Not there. The schematic is on this site, but all I can get is it is an NPO resistor. Pardon the old age, but I cannot remember the name of this filament protector....seems it started with a GLO....something. Starts off with a high resistance, and as it (and the filaments) warm up, drops the resistance until the tubes have proper Voltage and there is no uneven heating of the filaments. Help, anyone??? What and from whom?
::
::
::
::TNX,
::Lewis
::
:
:
First of all I wonder why that GLOBAR has self destructed. I would do a careful check of the schematic to see if any short circuiting element could cause an overcurrent to happen. Interesting on the PP 25L6s - saw something similar with PP 6L6s in my Hallicrafters SX25 receiver.
The Raytheon TV shows a fully round picture. Several of the earliest TVs did this - they did not bother with masking the tube. I guess you got what you got. BUT also in those early days ANY kind of a picture was a novelty. Incidentally, this set must have failed early in its' life since the CRT works just like NEW.
Lou
:PS I tried to look up the schematic on this site but could not find it by the model number.Am I looking in the right place ( under Stromberg - Carlson).
::
::Lou
:
:
:OOPZ...My bad!!! It is a model 1500H, the H being, I guess, the brown cabinet it lives in. Got three radios at the same place, got model numbers mixed up. Yeah, Glo-Bar, that's what I am trying to think of. Anyway, the one that was in there is now carbon all over the interior of the chassis. The model 1116 is a Constellation, made or marketed by the Gulf Tire and Supply Co., and it needs re-capping BAD before I even think of it working. I VARIACed it and got all the tubes to light up, but no B+. This one has push-pull 25L6s in the output, kinda odd for a table model with a 6" speaker, but it has a pretty wood cabinet, and might be made to sell for a small profit.
:
:On your television restoration, that is the first I've seen with all of the round CRT showing, usually they masked it off to a rectangle and wasted the corners. Does it show a round picture, or do you have the standard aspect ratio with the corners dark?
:
:
:If anyone can help with a schematic of the Gulf Tube and Supply "Constellation" 1116 model, I might need it if re-capping alone doesn't make it play. I'm still wondering about those PP 25L6s in a table model.
:Lewis
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
::
:::Someone gave me a SC Model 1116 AM radio, and it looks OK except for the surge resistor in the filament string. It's gone. Not there. The schematic is on this site, but all I can get is it is an NPO resistor. Pardon the old age, but I cannot remember the name of this filament protector....seems it started with a GLO....something. Starts off with a high resistance, and as it (and the filaments) warm up, drops the resistance until the tubes have proper Voltage and there is no uneven heating of the filaments. Help, anyone??? What and from whom?
:::
:::
:::
:::TNX,
:::Lewis
:::
::
::
:
:
:
:First of all I wonder why that GLOBAR has self destructed. I would do a careful check of the schematic to see if any short circuiting element could cause an overcurrent to happen. Interesting on the PP 25L6s - saw something similar with PP 6L6s in my Hallicrafters SX25 receiver.
:
:The Raytheon TV shows a fully round picture. Several of the earliest TVs did this - they did not bother with masking the tube. I guess you got what you got. BUT also in those early days ANY kind of a picture was a novelty. Incidentally, this set must have failed early in its' life since the CRT works just like NEW.
:
:Lou
Lou:
I guess one has to read those bottom of the screen "crawls" about weather and news real carefully, since you only get one letter at a time {;>). A neighbor gave me a 1948 GE model 810 when I was a teenager, I replaced two tubes and had me a TV in my bedroom. That thing worked great, could get stations from over a hundred miles away, and had the most beautiful picture seen outside of a studio. I learned a lot about TV fooling around with that old GE, I finally gave it away.
Getting back to the radio, it uses a selelium rectifier, so I can run the tube filaments without B+ very easily, so I will be sure the filament string is ok before I tackle the caps, ALL of which are wax paper type, and all are leaking wax, so I have a ways to go before I am ready to put B+ on the thing and start fixing it. Anyway, I have other radios to fix first, so I will order a Glo-Bar and wait.
Lewis
The wax caps may be shorted causing all manner of havoc in the set.
Good luck - let me know if you need any further help - my test bench is not busy right now!!
Lou
:::Hi Lewis
::
::First of all I wonder why that GLOBAR has self destructed. I would do a careful check of the schematic to see if any short circuiting element could cause an overcurrent to happen. Interesting on the PP 25L6s - saw something similar with PP 6L6s in my Hallicrafters SX25 receiver.
::
::The Raytheon TV shows a fully round picture. Several of the earliest TVs did this - they did not bother with masking the tube. I guess you got what you got. BUT also in those early days ANY kind of a picture was a novelty. Incidentally, this set must have failed early in its' life since the CRT works just like NEW.
::
::Lou
:
:
:Lou:
:I guess one has to read those bottom of the screen "crawls" about weather and news real carefully, since you only get one letter at a time {;>). A neighbor gave me a 1948 GE model 810 when I was a teenager, I replaced two tubes and had me a TV in my bedroom. That thing worked great, could get stations from over a hundred miles away, and had the most beautiful picture seen outside of a studio. I learned a lot about TV fooling around with that old GE, I finally gave it away.
:
:Getting back to the radio, it uses a selelium rectifier, so I can run the tube filaments without B+ very easily, so I will be sure the filament string is ok before I tackle the caps, ALL of which are wax paper type, and all are leaking wax, so I have a ways to go before I am ready to put B+ on the thing and start fixing it. Anyway, I have other radios to fix first, so I will order a Glo-Bar and wait.
:Lewis
:
|
:Good idea.
:
:The wax caps may be shorted causing all manner of havoc in the set.
:
:Good luck - let me know if you need any further help - my test bench is not busy right now!!
:
:Lou
:
::::Hi Lewis
:::
:::First of all I wonder why that GLOBAR has self destructed. I would do a careful check of the schematic to see if any short circuiting element could cause an overcurrent to happen. Interesting on the PP 25L6s - saw something similar with PP 6L6s in my Hallicrafters SX25 receiver.
:::
:::The Raytheon TV shows a fully round picture. Several of the earliest TVs did this - they did not bother with masking the tube. I guess you got what you got. BUT also in those early days ANY kind of a picture was a novelty. Incidentally, this set must have failed early in its' life since the CRT works just like NEW.
:::
:::Lou
::
::
::Lou:
::I guess one has to read those bottom of the screen "crawls" about weather and news real carefully, since you only get one letter at a time {;>). A neighbor gave me a 1948 GE model 810 when I was a teenager, I replaced two tubes and had me a TV in my bedroom. That thing worked great, could get stations from over a hundred miles away, and had the most beautiful picture seen outside of a studio. I learned a lot about TV fooling around with that old GE, I finally gave it away.
::
::Getting back to the radio, it uses a selelium rectifier, so I can run the tube filaments without B+ very easily, so I will be sure the filament string is ok before I tackle the caps, ALL of which are wax paper type, and all are leaking wax, so I have a ways to go before I am ready to put B+ on the thing and start fixing it. Anyway, I have other radios to fix first, so I will order a Glo-Bar and wait.
::Lewis
::
:
:
Before ordering the new resistor, consider this. If you bypass the selenium rectifier with a silicon diode, the radio will be more reliable. I am told the seleniums self-destruct sometimes. Just solder the diode to one of the terminals and attach the other lead to it. However, you will then need to increase the value of that resistor to bring the B+ down to a reasonable level. I would just use a 5 watt ceramic resistor. I wish I could tell you what value I wound up using but it is nothing special and the radio plays fine.
The 1500 is a very good performer. It is an AA6, in this case, 5 tubes plus the rectifier. With the extra RF stage in the front end, the one I have brings in distant stations very well. Good luck with it.
:::Hi Lewis
::
::First of all I wonder why that GLOBAR has self destructed. I would do a careful check of the schematic to see if any short circuiting element could cause an overcurrent to happen. Interesting on the PP 25L6s - saw something similar with PP 6L6s in my Hallicrafters SX25 receiver.
::
::The Raytheon TV shows a fully round picture. Several of the earliest TVs did this - they did not bother with masking the tube. I guess you got what you got. BUT also in those early days ANY kind of a picture was a novelty. Incidentally, this set must have failed early in its' life since the CRT works just like NEW.
::
::Lou
:
:
:Lou:
:I guess one has to read those bottom of the screen "crawls" about weather and news real carefully, since you only get one letter at a time {;>). A neighbor gave me a 1948 GE model 810 when I was a teenager, I replaced two tubes and had me a TV in my bedroom. That thing worked great, could get stations from over a hundred miles away, and had the most beautiful picture seen outside of a studio. I learned a lot about TV fooling around with that old GE, I finally gave it away.
:
:Getting back to the radio, it uses a selelium rectifier, so I can run the tube filaments without B+ very easily, so I will be sure the filament string is ok before I tackle the caps, ALL of which are wax paper type, and all are leaking wax, so I have a ways to go before I am ready to put B+ on the thing and start fixing it. Anyway, I have other radios to fix first, so I will order a Glo-Bar and wait.
:Lewis
:
:Before ordering the new resistor, consider this. If you bypass the selenium rectifier with a silicon diode, the radio will be more reliable. I am told the seleniums self-destruct sometimes. Just solder the diode to one of the terminals and attach the other lead to it. However, you will then need to increase the value of that resistor to bring the B+ down to a reasonable level. I would just use a 5 watt ceramic resistor. I wish I could tell you what value I wound up using but it is nothing special and the radio plays fine.
:The 1500 is a very good performer. It is an AA6, in this case, 5 tubes plus the rectifier. With the extra RF stage in the front end, the one I have brings in distant stations very well. Good luck with it.
:
:
:
::::Hi Lewis
:::
:::First of all I wonder why that GLOBAR has self destructed. I would do a careful check of the schematic to see if any short circuiting element could cause an overcurrent to happen. Interesting on the PP 25L6s - saw something similar with PP 6L6s in my Hallicrafters SX25 receiver.
John and Lou:
The Glo-Bar is in the filament circuit, to let the filaments warm up more evenly due to different rates of heating and the change in resistance between a warm and cold resistance. I have disconnected the selenium rectifier run the filaments through a VARIAC and nothing has blown a one Amp fuse, so for now I'm saying lightning strike, considering the extent that thing is blown all over the inside of the chassis. Soon as I finish the two I'm working on, I'll put a little AC to it with a 1N4003 in the circuit and see if the electrolytics will form, but they will be out of here when I recap.
As for the Stromberg-Carlson, it looks in good shape, when I put AC on it (with the VARIAC, of course) it hummed, but nothing leaked magic smoke. It, too needs complete re-capping, but that RF amplifier facinates me, I might get stations from all over the place at night with it. Anyway, I am going to make a list of all I need and only pay one shipping charge if I can. I think they will both turn out to be good looking, good working radios without very much effort.
Will keep y'all posted.
Lewis
:::
::
::
:::::Hi Lewis
::::
::::First of all I wonder why that GLOBAR has self destructed. I would do a careful check of the schematic to see if any short circuiting element could cause an overcurrent to happen. Interesting on the PP 25L6s - saw something similar with PP 6L6s in my Hallicrafters SX25 receiver.
:
:
:
:John and Lou:
:The Glo-Bar is in the filament circuit, to let the filaments warm up more evenly due to different rates of heating and the change in resistance between a warm and cold resistance. I have disconnected the selenium rectifier run the filaments through a VARIAC and nothing has blown a one Amp fuse, so for now I'm saying lightning strike, considering the extent that thing is blown all over the inside of the chassis. Soon as I finish the two I'm working on, I'll put a little AC to it with a 1N4003 in the circuit and see if the electrolytics will form, but they will be out of here when I recap.
:
:As for the Stromberg-Carlson, it looks in good shape, when I put AC on it (with the VARIAC, of course) it hummed, but nothing leaked magic smoke. It, too needs complete re-capping, but that RF amplifier facinates me, I might get stations from all over the place at night with it. Anyway, I am going to make a list of all I need and only pay one shipping charge if I can. I think they will both turn out to be good looking, good working radios without very much effort.
:
:Will keep y'all posted.
:
:Lewis
Hey, y'all:
Can someone point me to a date where a chassis mounted filter cap was opened and the guts replaced with two modern electrolytics? This S-C needs a chassis mounted twist in cap of 40-40uF @ 200 Volts. Do they still make those things? From what I have read, it would be better to use the case, and all the ground lugs I have and re-gut it to keep the same appearence as the original. Comments, anyone???
TNX,
Lewis
|
:::
::::::Hi Lewis
:::::
:::::First of all I wonder why that GLOBAR has self destructed. I would do a careful check of the schematic to see if any short circuiting element could cause an overcurrent to happen. Interesting on the PP 25L6s - saw something similar with PP 6L6s in my Hallicrafters SX25 receiver.
::
::
::
::John and Lou:
::The Glo-Bar is in the filament circuit, to let the filaments warm up more evenly due to different rates of heating and the change in resistance between a warm and cold resistance. I have disconnected the selenium rectifier run the filaments through a VARIAC and nothing has blown a one Amp fuse, so for now I'm saying lightning strike, considering the extent that thing is blown all over the inside of the chassis. Soon as I finish the two I'm working on, I'll put a little AC to it with a 1N4003 in the circuit and see if the electrolytics will form, but they will be out of here when I recap.
::
::As for the Stromberg-Carlson, it looks in good shape, when I put AC on it (with the VARIAC, of course) it hummed, but nothing leaked magic smoke. It, too needs complete re-capping, but that RF amplifier facinates me, I might get stations from all over the place at night with it. Anyway, I am going to make a list of all I need and only pay one shipping charge if I can. I think they will both turn out to be good looking, good working radios without very much effort.
::
::Will keep y'all posted.
::
::Lewis
:
:
:
:Hey, y'all:
:
:Can someone point me to a date where a chassis mounted filter cap was opened and the guts replaced with two modern electrolytics? This S-C needs a chassis mounted twist in cap of 40-40uF @ 200 Volts. Do they still make those things? From what I have read, it would be better to use the case, and all the ground lugs I have and re-gut it to keep the same appearence as the original. Comments, anyone???
:TNX,
:Lewis
: