Gentlemen:

I need an opinion.

Would you install fuses in a newly-restored radio? Maybe the small instrument type in both sides of the line? If so, how would you rate them ( slo blo or fast and what percentage of inrush current?). Since we try to keep radios original, is this a lousy idea or is safety more important thsn originality? In the past, I have put my antiques on a power strip and turned the strip off when the unit was not in use for safety. If I restore a radio for someone else I cannot guarantee that they will use a power strip correctly.

Lou

:Gentlemen:
:
:I need an opinion.
:
:Would you install fuses in a newly-restored radio? Maybe the small instrument type in both sides of the line? If so, how would you rate them ( slo blo or fast and what percentage of inrush current?). Since we try to keep radios original, is this a lousy idea or is safety more important thsn originality? In the past, I have put my antiques on a power strip and turned the strip off when the unit was not in use for safety. If I restore a radio for someone else I cannot guarantee that they will use a power strip correctly.
:
:Lou

I love fuses! I would put them in any radio I restored, if nothing else than to save an irreplaceable power transformer or speaker field coil if a tube or cap shorts out. I am also not opposed to using a polarized cord and a bit of rewiring in the AC line cord to make a radio safer. Things have changed since the 1930s, especially among lawyers and law suits.
Lewis

:Gentlemen:
:
:I need an opinion.
:
:Would you install fuses in a newly-restored radio? Maybe the small instrument type in both sides of the line? If so, how would you rate them ( slo blo or fast and what percentage of inrush current?). Since we try to keep radios original, is this a lousy idea or is safety more important thsn originality? In the past, I have put my antiques on a power strip and turned the strip off when the unit was not in use for safety. If I restore a radio for someone else I cannot guarantee that they will use a power strip correctly.
:
:Lou
:
Typically one replaces (or installs in lieu of cans) capacitors under the chassis, which do not look anything like the original; so unless you put new capacitors inside the old cases, it is not kept 'original' anyway. I install at least one fuse in every radio I repair or restore. All I am looking for is brute force to protect against a catastropic failure. The little 3 amp fuses made for Christmas tree lamps are small, inexpensive, and work great - they just solder in inconspiciously. Every Christmas I buy up a few dozen. Also I typically put about 15 to 20 ohms worth of series or parallel 1/2 watt carbon film or carbon comp. resistors in series with rectifier plate(s) input or cathode output; sized wattage wise such that they are just barely warm when the set operates; (2-33 ohm, 1/2 watt carbon film in parallel is right for an AA5 radio, and most other, including transformer sets). The resistors make cheap fuses, and will protect transformers and field coils; the voltage drop does not materially affect operation of the radio. EdM

:Gentlemen:
:
:I need an opinion.
:
:Would you install fuses in a newly-restored radio? Maybe the small instrument type in both sides of the line? If so, how would you rate them ( slo blo or fast and what percentage of inrush current?). Since we try to keep radios original, is this a lousy idea or is safety more important thsn originality? In the past, I have put my antiques on a power strip and turned the strip off when the unit was not in use for safety. If I restore a radio for someone else I cannot guarantee that they will use a power strip correctly.
:
:Lou
:
Hi Lou,
I have never done it, never thought it necessary.
Sorting caps is unlikely. If the capacitor was likely to short, I would replace it. I also replace canohm resistors. I have seen too many of them short to ground.
A tube shorting such that it would blow a fuse is only possible on a series string. No tube with an H-K short is kept in a series string (AC-DC) reducing the chances of that to extremely low.
I just don't see the need for a fuse, so I never install them.

I do change the plate resistors on diodes to bring plate voltages into line, though. I like having all the voltages tight.

All the Best,

Bill Grimm

:I have also found that Maas Electric markets a power strip that automatically turns the power off to a unit connected to it when that unit no longer draws power. What do you think of that idea? Sounds safe!!

Lou

:Gentlemen:
::
::I need an opinion.
::
::Would you install fuses in a newly-restored radio? Maybe the small instrument type in both sides of the line? If so, how would you rate them ( slo blo or fast and what percentage of inrush current?). Since we try to keep radios original, is this a lousy idea or is safety more important thsn originality? In the past, I have put my antiques on a power strip and turned the strip off when the unit was not in use for safety. If I restore a radio for someone else I cannot guarantee that they will use a power strip correctly.
::
::Lou
::
:Hi Lou,
: I have never done it, never thought it necessary.
: Sorting caps is unlikely. If the capacitor was likely to short, I would replace it. I also replace canohm resistors. I have seen too many of them short to ground.
: A tube shorting such that it would blow a fuse is only possible on a series string. No tube with an H-K short is kept in a series string (AC-DC) reducing the chances of that to extremely low.
: I just don't see the need for a fuse, so I never install them.
:
: I do change the plate resistors on diodes to bring plate voltages into line, though. I like having all the voltages tight.
:
:All the Best,
:
:Bill Grimm
:

Whether you use a fuse or not is up to you. But use the proper fuse. A radio that draws 100 Watts means about 1 ampere line current.

A 3 ampere fuse will not blow at 3 amps. It will last an hour with almost 4 amps. It will blow quickly with 6 Amps.
http://www.littelfuse.com/data/en/Data_Sheets/312_318.pdf

Rich

::I have also found that Maas Electric markets a power strip that automatically turns the power off to a unit connected to it when that unit no longer draws power. What do you think of that idea? Sounds safe!!
:
:Lou
:
::Gentlemen:
:::
:::I need an opinion.
:::
:::Would you install fuses in a newly-restored radio? Maybe the small instrument type in both sides of the line? If so, how would you rate them ( slo blo or fast and what percentage of inrush current?). Since we try to keep radios original, is this a lousy idea or is safety more important thsn originality? In the past, I have put my antiques on a power strip and turned the strip off when the unit was not in use for safety. If I restore a radio for someone else I cannot guarantee that they will use a power strip correctly.
:::
:::Lou
:::
::Hi Lou,
:: I have never done it, never thought it necessary.
:: Sorting caps is unlikely. If the capacitor was likely to short, I would replace it. I also replace canohm resistors. I have seen too many of them short to ground.
:: A tube shorting such that it would blow a fuse is only possible on a series string. No tube with an H-K short is kept in a series string (AC-DC) reducing the chances of that to extremely low.
:: I just don't see the need for a fuse, so I never install them.
::
:: I do change the plate resistors on diodes to bring plate voltages into line, though. I like having all the voltages tight.
::
::All the Best,
::
::Bill Grimm
::
:
:

::I have also found that Maas Electric markets a power strip that automatically turns the power off to a unit connected to it when that unit no longer draws power. What do you think of that idea? Sounds safe!!
:
:Lou
:
::Gentlemen:
:::
:::I need an opinion.
:::
:::Would you install fuses in a newly-restored radio? Maybe the small instrument type in both sides of the line? If so, how would you rate them ( slo blo or fast and what percentage of inrush current?). Since we try to keep radios original, is this a lousy idea or is safety more important thsn originality? In the past, I have put my antiques on a power strip and turned the strip off when the unit was not in use for safety. If I restore a radio for someone else I cannot guarantee that they will use a power strip correctly.
:::
:::Lou
:::
::Hi Lou,
:: I have never done it, never thought it necessary.
:: Sorting caps is unlikely. If the capacitor was likely to short, I would replace it. I also replace canohm resistors. I have seen too many of them short to ground.
:: A tube shorting such that it would blow a fuse is only possible on a series string. No tube with an H-K short is kept in a series string (AC-DC) reducing the chances of that to extremely low.
:: I just don't see the need for a fuse, so I never install them.
::
:: I do change the plate resistors on diodes to bring plate voltages into line, though. I like having all the voltages tight.
::
::All the Best,
::
::Bill Grimm
::
:
:
Hi Lou,
How does it allow the radio to be turned on?
In any case, the purpose for a fuse would be in the following situation, one I happenned to have enoucntered in a Zenith Y724.
In that instance the raido was turned on with a 12AT7 that had a cold filament H-K short. As a result the full 120VAC was across the 6BJ6 and 35C5 filaments. The 6BJ6 cracked, the 35C5 shattered sending glass all over the place. The power strip would not have prevented that.
That kind of thing is quite rare, though. This happenned when an old 12AT7 was replaced with a new untested one, that had the defect, not a common occurrence.

Best Regards,

Bill grimm

:Would you use fast blow fuses?

Thanks

Lou

::I have also found that Maas Electric markets a power strip that automatically turns the power off to a unit connected to it when that unit no longer draws power. What do you think of that idea? Sounds safe!!
::
::Lou
::
:::Gentlemen:
::::
::::I need an opinion.
::::
::::Would you install fuses in a newly-restored radio? Maybe the small instrument type in both sides of the line? If so, how would you rate them ( slo blo or fast and what percentage of inrush current?). Since we try to keep radios original, is this a lousy idea or is safety more important thsn originality? In the past, I have put my antiques on a power strip and turned the strip off when the unit was not in use for safety. If I restore a radio for someone else I cannot guarantee that they will use a power strip correctly.
::::
::::Lou
::::
:::Hi Lou,
::: I have never done it, never thought it necessary.
::: Sorting caps is unlikely. If the capacitor was likely to short, I would replace it. I also replace canohm resistors. I have seen too many of them short to ground.
::: A tube shorting such that it would blow a fuse is only possible on a series string. No tube with an H-K short is kept in a series string (AC-DC) reducing the chances of that to extremely low.
::: I just don't see the need for a fuse, so I never install them.
:::
::: I do change the plate resistors on diodes to bring plate voltages into line, though. I like having all the voltages tight.
:::
:::All the Best,
:::
:::Bill Grimm
:::
::
::
:Hi Lou,
: How does it allow the radio to be turned on?
: In any case, the purpose for a fuse would be in the following situation, one I happenned to have enoucntered in a Zenith Y724.
: In that instance the raido was turned on with a 12AT7 that had a cold filament H-K short. As a result the full 120VAC was across the 6BJ6 and 35C5 filaments. The 6BJ6 cracked, the 35C5 shattered sending glass all over the place. The power strip would not have prevented that.
: That kind of thing is quite rare, though. This happenned when an old 12AT7 was replaced with a new untested one, that had the defect, not a common occurrence.
:
:Best Regards,
:
:Bill grimm
:

I think the ideal is a slo-blow fuse of a low value like 1 or 2 amps max for a radio.

I had a 3 amp fuse blow in a radio a couple of days ago. It is the 1962? Japanese AGS AM/FM which has had a traumatized past. It came from the factory with a fuse holder on the chassis, series string 7 tuber. So they thought it was a good thing to do, even for a cheap table radio. I haven't checked it out yet, but it was playing nicely for 20 mins, then 'Pop'. I have already popped a couple of fuses in this thing, but that was me poking around with it plugged in. So I was out of small fuses, and found a 3 amp for it. I'm glad now I didn't just rig up a jumper.

I will add a fuse to anything with a power transformer. Starting in the 60's, everything of value had a fuse in it, IMO.
::Would you use fast blow fuses?
:
:Thanks
:
:Lou
:
:::I have also found that Maas Electric markets a power strip that automatically turns the power off to a unit connected to it when that unit no longer draws power. What do you think of that idea? Sounds safe!!
:::
:::Lou
:::
::::Gentlemen:
:::::
:::::I need an opinion.
:::::
:::::Would you install fuses in a newly-restored radio? Maybe the small instrument type in both sides of the line? If so, how would you rate them ( slo blo or fast and what percentage of inrush current?). Since we try to keep radios original, is this a lousy idea or is safety more important thsn originality? In the past, I have put my antiques on a power strip and turned the strip off when the unit was not in use for safety. If I restore a radio for someone else I cannot guarantee that they will use a power strip correctly.
:::::
:::::Lou
:::::
::::Hi Lou,
:::: I have never done it, never thought it necessary.
:::: Sorting caps is unlikely. If the capacitor was likely to short, I would replace it. I also replace canohm resistors. I have seen too many of them short to ground.
:::: A tube shorting such that it would blow a fuse is only possible on a series string. No tube with an H-K short is kept in a series string (AC-DC) reducing the chances of that to extremely low.
:::: I just don't see the need for a fuse, so I never install them.
::::
:::: I do change the plate resistors on diodes to bring plate voltages into line, though. I like having all the voltages tight.
::::
::::All the Best,
::::
::::Bill Grimm
::::
:::
:::
::Hi Lou,
:: How does it allow the radio to be turned on?
:: In any case, the purpose for a fuse would be in the following situation, one I happenned to have enoucntered in a Zenith Y724.
:: In that instance the raido was turned on with a 12AT7 that had a cold filament H-K short. As a result the full 120VAC was across the 6BJ6 and 35C5 filaments. The 6BJ6 cracked, the 35C5 shattered sending glass all over the place. The power strip would not have prevented that.
:: That kind of thing is quite rare, though. This happenned when an old 12AT7 was replaced with a new untested one, that had the defect, not a common occurrence.
::
::Best Regards,
::
::Bill grimm
::
:
: