Hi All,
I have an annoying one here. GE-540 won't turn on. The electronics are fine, but the shaft for the on/off is rusted and won't turn!
I have done the WD-40 thing and 3-in-1 oil for the past day and it shows no signs of budging. (I have removed it from the set.) My current plan is to keep at it with the lubricants for as long as it takes, but does anyone know a short cut?

All the Best,

Bill Grimm

:Hi All,
: I have an annoying one here. GE-540 won't turn on. The electronics are fine, but the shaft for the on/off is rusted and won't turn!
: I have done the WD-40 thing and 3-in-1 oil for the past day and it shows no signs of budging. (I have removed it from the set.) My current plan is to keep at it with the lubricants for as long as it takes, but does anyone know a short cut?
:
:All the Best,
:
:Bill Grimm
:
:
:You could try using a soldering iron to put a little heat to the shaft. The expansion and contraction of the shaft should allow the oil to get in there. Good luck with it.
Bob Masse
:
;
:

::Hi All,
:: I have an annoying one here. GE-540 won't turn on. The electronics are fine, but the shaft for the on/off is rusted and won't turn!
:: I have done the WD-40 thing and 3-in-1 oil for the past day and it shows no signs of budging. (I have removed it from the set.) My current plan is to keep at it with the lubricants for as long as it takes, but does anyone know a short cut?
::
::All the Best,
::
::Bill Grimm
::
::
::You could try using a soldering iron to put a little heat to the shaft. The expansion and contraction of the shaft should allow the oil to get in there. Good luck with it.
:Bob Masse
::
:;
::
:

:::Hi All,
::: I have an annoying one here. GE-540 won't turn on. The electronics are fine, but the shaft for the on/off is rusted and won't turn!
::: I have done the WD-40 thing and 3-in-1 oil for the past day and it shows no signs of budging. (I have removed it from the set.) My current plan is to keep at it with the lubricants for as long as it takes, but does anyone know a short cut?

:::
:::All the Best,
:::
:::Bill Grimm
:::
:::
:::You could try using a soldering iron to put a little heat to the shaft. The expansion and contraction of the shaft should allow the oil to get in there. Good luck with it.
::Bob Masse
:::
::;
:::
::
:
:

::Hi All,
:: I have an annoying one here. GE-540 won't turn on. The electronics are fine, but the shaft for the on/off is rusted and won't turn!
:: I have done the WD-40 thing and 3-in-1 oil for the past day and it shows no signs of budging. (I have removed it from the set.) My current plan is to keep at it with the lubricants for as long as it takes, but does anyone know a short cut?
::
::All the Best,
::
::Bill Grimm
::
::
::You could try using a soldering iron to put a little heat to the shaft. The expansion and contraction of the shaft should allow the oil to get in there. Good luck with it.
:Bob Masse
::
:;
::
:
Good idea! Why didn't I think of it?
I will try it and report.

Best Regards,

Bill Grimm

:Hi All,
: I have an annoying one here. GE-540 won't turn on. The electronics are fine, but the shaft for the on/off is rusted and won't turn!
: I have done the WD-40 thing and 3-in-1 oil for the past day and it shows no signs of budging. (I have removed it from the set.) My current plan is to keep at it with the lubricants for as long as it takes, but does anyone know a short cut?

I've found PB-Blaster to be more effective than WD-40 or other penetrating oils. You mileage may vary...

::Hi All,
:: I have an annoying one here. GE-540 won't turn on. The electronics are fine, but the shaft for the on/off is rusted and won't turn!
:: I have done the WD-40 thing and 3-in-1 oil for the past day and it shows no signs of budging. (I have removed it from the set.) My current plan is to keep at it with the lubricants for as long as it takes, but does anyone know a short cut?
:
:I've found PB-Blaster to be more effective than WD-40 or other penetrating oils. You mileage may vary...
:

: The auto parts store has a good selection of penetrants/solvents. I have used a 'foaming graphite' type penetrant like Mopar Rust Penetrant (the old heat control valve solvent) with good results. As mentioned, PB Blaster is another good one. Heat and mechanical shock may help break it free.
WD-40 is more a 'Water Displacer' and light oil. I don't use it to free up metal/metal binding mechanisms.

:
:I've found PB-Blaster to be more effective than WD-40 or other penetrating oils. You mileage may vary...
:
:
Looks like a trip to the auto parts store is in order.
Makes perfect sense. Guys that restore classic cars run into this problem a whole lot more often than we do.

Best Regards,

Bill Grimm

::
::I've found PB-Blaster to be more effective than WD-40 or other penetrating oils. You mileage may vary...
::
::
:Looks like a trip to the auto parts store is in order.
:Makes perfect sense. Guys that restore classic cars run into this problem a whole lot more often than we do.
:
:Best Regards,
:
:Bill Grimm

All:
I read the word "graphite" mentioned in one of the replies. I learned the VERY hard way that graphite is conductive (I already knew it, just didn't think) when I used a oil/graphite mixture to lube some plate Voltage rheostat bearings in a broadcast radio transmitter. The stuff eventually ran across an insulator and had me up all night rewiring the resultant damage.
Lewis
:

:::
:::I've found PB-Blaster to be more effective than WD-40 or other penetrating oils. You mileage may vary...
:::
:::
::Looks like a trip to the auto parts store is in order.
::Makes perfect sense. Guys that restore classic cars run into this problem a whole lot more often than we do.
::
::Best Regards,
::
::Bill Grimm
:
:
:All:
:I read the word "graphite" mentioned in one of the replies. I learned the VERY hard way that graphite is conductive (I already knew it, just didn't think) when I used a oil/graphite mixture to lube some plate Voltage rheostat bearings in a broadcast radio transmitter. The stuff eventually ran across an insulator and had me up all night rewiring the resultant damage.
:Lewis
::
:
:
Thank you Lewis,
I will keep that in mind.

Best,

Bill Grimm

Update,
Not good news. The thing laughed at the heat, although it made encouraging creeking sounds it didn't budge.
Last night I soked it in a PB Blast spray and let it soak over night. Assured it would now turn I clamped it and tried it. I only managed to crack the switch and mangle the frame.
It looks like there is not fix for one this bad. Oddly it doesn't look corroded from the outside.

I tried the same treatment on a salt shaker from the china cabinet that has been stuck for years. THAT came loose!

Thank you for the help and I am still open for other ideas.

Best Regards,

Bill Grimm

Hi All,
The PB blast finally did its work. After breaking the switch assembly, I found a better place to attach the vice grips.
Grudgingly the shaft started to turn. I may have the shaft almost to usable condition.
Now I am rebuilding the switch.

All the Best,

Bill Grimm