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Sure enough, just last night I
found another instance of that
problem in a Philco 40-1900
chassis. The problem? Bugs in
tube-type radios with power
supplies where the B- does not go
to circuit ground.
    
So it's perhaps a good time to
review this kind of power supply
circuit and its potential for
problems.
    
If you've been trained on
repairing post-1955 electronics,
you probably haven't been exposed
to this kind of power supply.
Somewhere around that time,
power supplies on the better
equipment started having separate
B- bias supplies. Look at any good
scope made since 1955 and you'll
see a separate B- supply, usually
regulated.
    
Power supplies on consumer
items generally got their bias by
floating the cathodes up a bit with
resistors. In either case, the main
B+ supply has its B- tied firmly to
circuit (and usually chassis)
ground.
    
This is a comforting feature --
you can tie your test equipment to
chassis ground and have a safe,
secure, reliable reference point.
    
But if you look at radios made
before then, there is a subtle but
crucial difference -- known by
many names, such as
"negative-lead filtering"
"depressed ground", and probably
many other names.
    
In this scheme, the B- is not tied
to circuit ground -- there are one or
more resistors and/or speaker field
coil between B- and chassis.
    
This design does several things at
once: The resistor or field coil
takes up most of the 120CPS ripple
left by the first filter capacitor. it
also drops 10 to 40 volts, providing
a source of negative bias voltage
for the audio output tubes (and
sometimes other stages).
    
The advantage is they get
double-duty out of one resistor or
field coil. If the resistor or coil
was in the B+ path, it would have
the same filtering effect, but would
not provide a negative bias voltage.
Negative-lead filtering saves the
manufacturer the cost of a power
resistor and also saves a watt or
two of power.
    
The downside is that the circuit
is a bit trickier to work with and
restore, especially for people
trained on newer equipment that
usually doesn't have this
arrangement.
    
There are plenty of pitfalls that
the unwary repair person can fall
into. I've fallen into at least two of
these myself, and have seen the
rest in old radios that I've worked
on.
Pitfall #1 - Grounding the first capacitor can
    
If you replace the first
electrolytic capacitor, you have to
ensure that the replacement cap
does not end up with a grounded
can. The older caps had a
separate (black) minus lead which
is usually not connected to the can.
When the minus lead is connected
to the can, there are some fiber
washers used to insulate the can
from the chassis. Our natural
tendency is to assume the capacitor
can may be bolted right to the
chassis, which is wrong, wrong,
wrong, wrong, if negative-lead
filtering is supposed to be going
on.
    
As an example of this problem, I
have this Philco 40-1900 chassis,
where an electrolytic was changed
long ago. The repair person
bolted in a nice. old-style one-hole
screw-mount capacitor. But they
forgot to put in a fiber washer on
the top side of the chassis. As a
result the B- lead was grounded,
there was no negative bias, and the
audio output tubes ran very hot and
the radio had a weak and fuzzy
sound.
    
Luckily the field coil had enough
resistance (and endurance) to limit
the current so the power
transformer and output tubes didn't
burn up. The radio has been
running this way for at least 30
years it seems, but this is an
exceptional history. Many designs
will not run at all or will quickly
burn up the field coil, output tubes,
or power transformer.
Pitfall #2 - Replacing both caps with a dual-section cap
    
We're tempted to replace two
electrolytics with one dual-section
cap. But every dual-section cap I've
ever seen has both negative leads
hooked together, in anticipation of
being used in a more modern
power supply. This again is
wrong, wrong, wrong in a
negative-lead filtering power
supply circuit. If you unthinkingly
put in a dual-section cap without
thinking too much, you'll end up
tying both negative leads of the old
caps to the common negative lead.
This forms a dead short across the
old resistor or field coil.
    
I found this fault on another
Philco radio. It turns out there was
enough residual magnetism, even
with a shorted-out field coil, so the
radio would play, but weakly. So
watch out for this. You can't
effectively use a multiple-section,
common negative lead capacitor
with negative-lead filtering.
    
In most Philco's, there were two
separate capacitor cans, so I just
mount two multi-section capacitors,
with cases insulated from ground,
and just use one section of each
capacitor. If there is room under
the chassis, you could also leave
the old capacitors in place and
mount small lead-mounted
capacitors under the chassis.
Pitfall #3 - Goofy biasing and filtering "fixes"
    
On some radios, the B- had too
much ripple on it to be directly
used for bias. So there sometimes
is another stage of RC filtering
between the B- supply and the tube
grids. If someone has messed-up
the B- supply, they often had to
mess up the RC filter stage to try to
"fix" the problem. Look for extra
electrolytic caps in the circuit that
you don't see on the schematic.
These are often attempts to fix the
bias and hum problems caused by
the first problem.
    
An example of this was a small
Crosley, where I saw the usual
pitfall #1, followed by an extra
electrolytic capacitor added from
B- to ground, in an attempt to kill
the extra hum generated by
problem #1.
    
It's not unusual to see all kinds of
"fixes" in the bias circuit to
compensate for the basic problem.
They may have added a cathode
resistor to the output tube or tubes
to keep them from glowing too
much. Or they changed some of the
grid voltage divider resistors in an
attempt to get the bias voltages
nearer to reality.
    
There's one good clue for this
problem: If you fix the first B-
problem and then the radio plays
worse, keep looking, there's
probably some other fix to undo.
The only up-side is that this part of
the repair is cheap and easy -- just
removing a few extra resistors and
caps that were cobbled on to get
the radio to play.
Pitfall #4 - Hidden damage
    
If the radio didn't completely
burn up due to the lack of bias,
there may be some parts that have
suffered a lot of stress. Check the
output tubes for emission and gas.
Check the field coil for a burnt
smell or diminished resistance (a
sign of shorts). Check the power
transformer for a burnt smell or
dripping wax. Weak or bad tubes
can be replaced. Overheated field
coils and power transformers may
continue to work well for decades,
or may fail at any time. Since
these are difficult and expensive to
replace, use your best judgment on
these.
    
Now. enjoy your radio as it was
intended to play. - George.
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