marv

:::::One more thing, yeah-that resistor always confused me too, but it was in there when I got it, (check bag of old parts I included). I don't remember cracks around the screws, sounds like somebody dropped it. There is a small crack on one side, and a chip in one corner I tried to fix with super glue.
:::::Still, it's a nice radio, and generated a couple of interesting threads here and at ARF.
:::::Thanks again-
:::::t.
:::::
:::::IPAddress: ***.28.48.106
::::
::::As a follow-up Terry..
::::I should indicate that when I swapped the leads on the oscillator coil to get it working.. I didn't just simply do that as a wild guess. Nope.
::::
:::: What I actually did to troubleshoot it was to place my scope probe near the oscillator coil and noticed it was not oscillating.
::::
::::So then I did the following:
::::1.) Checked the schematic to see if the 4 main wires to the coil were connected properly and noticed that the schematic showed the resistance values of both windings.. so I knew then that I could not only check for continuity of each winding but that I would easily be able to determine each one by the resistance.
::::I was not able to determine however if the two wires that needed swapping were connected properly though as the print did not indicate which lug on the coil was which.
::::
::::2.) Reading the notes page I saw a blow up drawing of the oscillator coil that did clearly indicate which lugs connected to where.
::::
::::3.) Traced the lug leads comparing to the blow-up drawing and noticed that two were reversed.
::::
::::4. Unsoldered all 4 leads and checked the windings for continuity and saw they were both good. Then by measuring the resistance differences I was able to confirm the identity of the two windings.
::::
::::5.) Rewired all 4 leads back to the coil in the proper place.
::::
::::6.) Turned it on and it played fine.
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::IPAddress: ***.115.81.106
:::Thanks for the added information. My mistake was to simply assume that since the coil winding resistance was correct, then the polarity shouldn't make a difference.
:::You didn't mention that I had made elaborate drawings of the connections of both IF transformers and the osc coil as I disconnected them. These should have included the resistance readings. These were in the package sent with the radio. It is VERY possible that I made some mistake in the original hook up diagram, and believing it to be correct, simply repeated my error.
:::I had also performed several tests, which I posted at the time, establishing that the osc was not working. However, my attention was mostly centered on the work I did on the IF transformer, since to the best of my knowledge that was all that had changed. Plus, the radio worked before then.
:::After that I was distracted by chasing some of the more exotic possibilities, such as replacing the parts connected to the 12BE6, and repeatedly trying to find bad solder connections in the odd tube socket terminations above the chassis.
:::
:::Two lessons emerge from this, and I consider the education factor more important than the actual repair.
:::1) Document EVERYTHING, and then RECHECK that documentation.
:::2) It's usually the simple, rather than complex, things that go wrong.
:::
:::One thing that I feel is also important, and has been totally overlooked in all of the comments, is that I repaired the crackling problem sucessfully. This was a problem I had never seen, involved careful attention to the service information, i.e. schematic, and without good work could NEVER have been effected. I accessed the correct online resources, carefully removed the old capacitor, (see previouly posted photos), rebuilt, re-installed and correctly reconnected the IF transformer, and apparently chose the right capacitors to bridge them. In my defense I feel that with all of this going on, it might be easy to overlook a simple reversal of leads.
:::That said though-
:::Once again MANY THANKS for your help. Without it I would be bragging about fixing a dead radio.
:::Terry
:::
:::
:::
:::IPAddress: ***.28.48.106
::
::Update for anyone still following this thread. When Peter got the radio, he told me that there were long cracks around the chassis screws. I got the radio back from Peter with MORE damage from shipping. The covers for the tube sockets were smashed. I ship radios all the time, and this radio was very carefully packed, both by me and Peter. In addition to what I've spent on parts, plus shipping, this is rapidly becoming the most expensive radio I own. I bought some clock knobs and the letter they were shipped in arrived ripped open and empty. And of course I still have the cracked tuning knob. This poor radio has gone through so much. It's like I said to Peter-It's become like an adopted child. And like he said to me-"Look how much fun I'm having".
::ha ha
::
::IPAddress: ***.28.48.106
:Terry,
:I shipped one of those expensive German radios with the green eye, from Illinois to California. The cabinet was 3/4" thick wood. Carefully packed. It arrived in pieces. Sockets were actually ripped out of chasis. That is why I only use UPS now. PO never pays out claims, insurance is a waste. Our goverment at it again. Ups does a better job at handling and paying out for damages. Just to let you know.
:Sorry about your radio. It will get better.
:
:IPAddress: ***.202.149.220

IPAddress: ***.96.71.162